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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Domovník
Up the plateau chimney to the pillar. Traverse to the 1st ring and left via the pinnacle … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Morgan
From the valley side, via a crack to the ramp to the 1st ring. Through the corner, right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Morgan
Above the 2nd ring, directly along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Morgan
From the NE, straddling (2 rings), traverse right along the wall over the edge into the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Morgan
Via the route "Miracle of Nature" to the ledge above the 1st Ring. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Všední
The start is the same as the Inner Route to Boxer. Through the chimney almost to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Všední
From the valley side (from Boxer) via a crack to jammed blocks, then via a narrow chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Ostrovní
From the saddle between Ostrovní and Korál, in the left part of the wall, follow the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ostrovní
On the NE side of the tower, descend right between the pillar and the block to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ostrovní
From the block on the NE side of the tower, with a step and crack to the pillar. Via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Ostrovní
In the left part of the NE wall of the pillar, via a crack and groove (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ostrovní
From the saddle between Ostrovní and Korál, descend three meters through the chimney.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ostrovní
On the plateau side, straddle the pillar, from the straddle build up and via the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Ostrovní
Straddling the Built Route all the way to the pillar. With a jump and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Boxer
From the NE, from the highest point of the terrain, through the chimney to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Ostrovní
From the plateau (eastern) corner, crawl through the chimney between Ostrovní Tower and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Blíženci - Zlý
Left of the northern corner by a shallow slanted crack to the 1st ring. By crack to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Blíženci - Zlý
From S from the opposition by stepping into the wall, through it to the 1st and 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - Zlý
By opposition chimney between the twin towers to the lower summit. By crossing over and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5
Kuba
By NE face and left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Šejdíř
From NW into a blind gorge. By chimney for about eight meters and by chimney in the NE… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Šejdíř
From the exit of the gorge by crack several meters up and by pyrite wall (2 rings),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Šejdíř
At the eastern edge by crack to the small pillar, by wall left behind the edge, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Kolozub
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kolozub
About 5m right of the route „Nasral Franta na Trabanta“ by crack to the flake (1st ring),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kolozub
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kolozub
From Šejdíř descend by chimney and step over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kolozub
From the cave on the valley side of the tower by the right crack (ring), higher up by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Carabus
In the left part of the NW face of Šejdíř by chimney to its NE pillar. By crossing over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Carabus
From NE by crack to the balcony and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2

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