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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Věž u Lucia
From the NW via a chimney and crack to the 1st and 2nd rings. To the left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Věž u Lucia
From the fore-peak at the north corner, to the right by an oblique crack to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Lucius
Up the SE wall, by a small dihedral (ring) and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Věž u Lucia
From the fore-peak in the gully between towers, via a crack in the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
8-/8
Věž u Lucia
Via the "Prostatic Electricity" route briefly upwards and to the right up the wall (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Věž u Lucia
From the overgrown balcony below the narrow SW wall, by a crack, higher up the wall (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Věž u Lucia
5m right of the start of the "Prostatic Electricity" route, by fissures and the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pekelná brána
Up the valley wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Julián
Start in the corner of the pillar in the southeast, in the area between Pašerák and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pekelná brána
From the SE by a short chimney to the summit (n. v. - na vrchol). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Julián
To the left of the Hradecká route, through the chimney between Julián and the pillar,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Julián
From Ještěrčí Square, through the chimney between the pillar and the tower to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Julián
By opposition and crack, higher up by a small dihedral directly to the balcony with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zefír
Via the 'Severozápadní spára' (Northwest Crack) route for about four meters and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Zefír
From the gorge from NW (from Pusina) via a corner crack, higher up via a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zefír
Via the 'Přes odštěp' (Across the Detachment) route to Ještěrka up to the detached block … Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zefír
Descent from Ještěrka to a small pillar and traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Zefír
From the plateau side via a corner, higher up the face to the left (2 Q) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pusina
Right of the 'Večerní polibek' (Evening Kiss) route via the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pusina
From the plateau side via the SE face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pusina
From Pálavská via the valley chimney and crack to the balcony to the 1st ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From the plateau side from a small pillar via overhanging cracks (2 rings), left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From SW from the gorge via a chimney, higher up a crack to the pillar. Along it and along… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From the summit of Útes (Cliff) by stepping over to an overhanging ledge. Via the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From NE via a crack up to the widening, an overhanging crack-corner (ring) to the terrace… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pálavská
Between Pálavská and Walter Bonatti Tower, a ten-meter chimney, stepping into the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pálavská
From the saddle between Pálavská and Pusina, up the chimney to the pillar. Via the 'Above… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pálavská
From the overgrown fore-rock on the NW side of the tower, via a crack into the inner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Blátoš
From the block on the right plateau edge, up the wall right (ring), via the falcon crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Blátoš
From SW via the overhanging corner and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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