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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Démon
In the left part of the NE wall, up the chimney to the pillars. Up the wall and left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Skočná
From the SW, up the chimney to the southern pillar, a jump to the small platform of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Skočná
Up the wall along the valley-side eastern edge (3 rings) and right through a gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Skočná
Up the crack in the NE wall over the overhang to the pre-summit. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Angrešt
To the right of the south edge up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Angrešt
From the NE, up the wide crack, build up and up the wall (added ring) to the prepared… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Skunk
From the N up the crack to the terrace of the Old Route and then to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Skunk
From the SW (between Ding and Skunk) up the crack to the block and via the "Předposlední"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Mléčný zoubek
From the east, up the corner crack to the terrace and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Skunk
From the through-chimney on the NE side of the tower, up the crack to the block, build up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Poloostrov
From the block on the plateau side, step over and up the wall along the small crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Sen (Kokšův sen)
Up the crack of the "Grand Prix" route to the edge and then along it over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Sen (Kokšův sen)
Up the crack from the SW to the ring. Up the wall to the right to the 2nd ring. Build up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Sen (Kokšův sen)
Up the middle crack in the SW wall. Traverse right up the wall into the dihedral of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sen (Kokšův sen)
Up the NW crack to the ledge and up the wall to the right to the ring. Build up from the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Silwer
In the left part of the valley wall (from Řeřichový potok) up the crack to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Moby Dick
From the hiking path, via a crack in the NE wall to the 1st ring. Left up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Baseballová hůl
From the plateau side, via a stemming chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Baseballová hůl
Via the valley edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kladivoun
Via a crack on the pillar and the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kladivoun
Via a crack on the pillar and the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kladivoun
From the hiking path (right of the "Fish Thighs to Moby Dick" route), via a corner crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kladivoun
Via the right SW chimney to the pre-summit and the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kladivoun
From the plateau side, via a crack and chimney in the corner to the pillar. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hobo
Middle plateau (NW) crack to the balcony and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hobo
On the plateau side (left of the west corner), via a crack to the pillar, then left up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Alf
From E, from the tourist footbridge over the stream into the chimney and through it into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Alka
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Alf
From the hiking path, step over the stream and via an inner chimney to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Alf
Via the "Obíhačka" route to Hobo on the ledge. Jump across to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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