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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Alka
From the plateau (SW) side, through a passage into the inter-tower gap. Descend to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Celebes
In the southern edge, via a crack and chimney to the sub-summit plateau. By stemming and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Alka
From Metuje, via a chimney and crack (ring) to the terrace. Via a chimney and crack (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Celebes
In the southern edge, via a crack and chimney to the sub-summit plateau. By stemming and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Matračka
To the right of the northern edge, by a crack and a gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
3
Pablízek
Through the valley crack and by a chimney to the pre-summit. By a wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Anna van Deak
From the highest point of the terrain, via an overhanging crack to a small platform and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Pablízek
From S, with strenuous climbing and then a crack to the pre-summit. Via the route … Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Matračka
From the SW, by a short crack to the right to a small balcony and by a wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lingam
From the fore-rock on the NW side, by building and a wall diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Ostrov bláznů
To the left of the SW passage (by building) by a crack to the balcony and by Protlačená… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Ostrov bláznů
From the SW end of the passage, right over a vertical wall by opposition to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Ostrov bláznů
Between Ostrov bláznů (Island of Fools) and Ostrovní hora (Island Mountain), by stemming… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ostrov bláznů
From the east, along the corner and by a wall to the right to the ring. To the right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Ostrov bláznů
The entry is to the left of the walk-through chimney. From the block, by an overhang and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ostrov bláznů
At the eastern corner, by a crack and a fissure to the ring. By a wall to the SE pillar,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Ostrov bláznů
From the passage, by stemming to the SE pillar and by Kelímek's route to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ostrov bláznů
From the SW through a passage into the inner space and by a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Ostrov bláznů
Through the left NW crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Ostrov bláznů
Through the right valley crack, by a chimney to the pre-summit, by an overhang and a wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Ostrov bláznů
Through the middle NW crack to the pillar and to the left by a wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ostrovní hora
Through the chimney in the NE wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Racek
From the NE gorge through a chimney and to the left by a crack to a small balcony in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ostrovní hora
In the right part of the valley (NW) wall, by a crack to the pillar. To the left by a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Ostrovní hora
From the highest point of the terrain on the plateau side of the tower, by a crack and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Společná
To the left of the valley (northern) edge through a narrow chimney to the plateau (circle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Neptun
From the footbridge, a gully about four meters. By building, right a gully, a crack and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Podhříbek
By the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Neptun
From the gorge under the NW face of the tower via small chimney/groove (sokolík) (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kormorán
Between Cormorant and Gnome (from the tourist path from NE) via chimney to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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