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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Vodmašťovna
From Mecheché descend south, under the pine tree continuously down through the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vodmašťovna
Through the chimney between the tower and Mecheché, higher up by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Dešťová víla
Directly from the tourist path by the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Svatební dar
Briefly through the chimney to the pillar and by the smooth wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mufin
From E, crack to the ledge and wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mufin
From W, crack to the ledge and wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hrouda
From the plateau side (between Hrouda and Saská placka) by bridging chimney to the bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hrouda
In the left part of the plateau chimney, by crack to the small balcony and by wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Blíženci - Dobrý
From the valley, by wall (1st pitch), by crack (2nd pitch), by bridging/stemming on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Oblast 69
Bouldering route over two bolts, length approx. 7 m, difficult move from the first bolt … Rock Climbing
6
Oblast 69
Over one bolt, rappel over a sling around a tree or climb all the way up. Beautiful route. Rock Climbing
5
Topič
UIAA cl. 5. Up the upper wall to the bolt and left along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Jalová
UIAA cl. 4. From the inner space, via a system of chimneys to the platform. Along the… Rock Climbing
4
Klouzavá
UIAA cl. 4. From the upper side, traverse down the wall to the NW edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
5
Mašinfíra
UIAA cl. 5. From the SW fore-buttress, by crack to the ledge. By building up and wall … Rock Climbing
4
Mylady
UIAA cl. 4. From the upper edge, via overhang and small chimney to the platform. By… Rock Climbing
4
Porthos
UIAA class 4 From the accidental side through the chimney to the plateau and up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Porthos
UIAA cl. 3. On the NE side, up the right cracks to the pillar, then along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Dartagnan
UIAA class 5+ From the accidental gorge down the wall and along the S edge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing
2
Mloček
UIAA class 2 North crack and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Mloček
UIAA class 4 SW wall. Rock Climbing
3
Mloček
UIAA class 3 In the West corner through a crack to the pillar and up the wall. Rock Climbing
4
Pagoda
UIAA class 4 At the West corner through a crack and up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Šikmý balvan
UIAA class 3 Description missing Rock Climbing
3
Plotnová
UIAA class 3 In the East corner through a crack to the pillar and up the wall. Rock Climbing
4
Šikmý balvan
UIAA class 4 Along the East edge and up the wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Plotnová
UIAA class 2 From the accidental side up the wall to the block and right through the… Rock Climbing
4
Varan
UIAA class 4 From the SW between the tower and the higher pillar by bridging and up the… Rock Climbing
5
Varan
UIAA class 5 From the SW between the first and second pillars through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Padevět
UIAA class Leap 2 From the SW through the left chimney to the block and by leaping to the… Rock Climbing

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