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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Padevět
UIAA class 3 From the SW through the chimney between the tower and the block to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Fiedler
UIAA class 5+ From the SW corner through the chimney to the pillar and down the wall to… Rock Climbing
4
Meráno
UIAA class 4 From the SW edge through a crack to a plateau with a pine tree. Down into… Rock Climbing
4
Meráno
UIAA class 4 From the plateau along the ledge to the right to the edge, along it to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Meráno
UIAA class 5+ From the SW chimneys to the block between the tower and Fiedler. Overhang… Rock Climbing
4
Meráno
UIAA class 4 From the fore-rock through a crack to a plateau with a pine tree. Rock Climbing
5
Fiedler
UIAA class 5 From the SW corner through the chimney into the inner space. Along the S… Rock Climbing
2
Siňor
UIAA Grade 2. From SE via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Fiedler
UIAA Grade 5+. From the SW edge along pillars to the right up to the valley edge. 2m… Rock Climbing
2
Vídrholec
UIAA Grade 2. From SW via a crack to the pillar. Continue along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Liptákovské věže
UIAA Grade 3. Description missing. Rock Climbing
4
Plch
UIAA Grade 4. From the North along ledges to the left and via an East chimney to the… Rock Climbing
4
Plch
UIAA Grade 4. From the South via chimneys into the inner chamber and via the chimney of… Rock Climbing
7-
Echolína
UIAA Grade 7-. From the saddle on the upper side, descend South into the gorge. With… Rock Climbing
6
Echolína
UIAA Grade 6. From the ring, traverse along the wall to the 2nd ring of route no. 1 and… Rock Climbing
3
Vochomůrka
UIAA Grade 3. From SE via a small chimney to a small pillar, then traverse along the… Rock Climbing
4
El capitano
UIAA Grade 4. To the pillar via a chimney and a crack from the NE. Rock Climbing
4
Mrtvá milenka
UIAA Grade 4. From SE via a chimney to the pillar. Traverse left along the wall and to… Rock Climbing
5+
Novosvětská
UIAA Grade 5+. In the left part of the SW wall via a crack to a ledge, traverse right on… Rock Climbing
4
El capitano
UIAA Grade 4. From the gorge between the tower and the Dead Mistress via a chimney and… Rock Climbing
3
Smetana
UIAA Grade 3. From the South edge along the right wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hanči
UIAA 5 class via the wall and a small corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Krákorky
UIAA 6+ class from the South-right via a crack under the overhang to the ring. Through… Rock Climbing
5
Krákorky
UIAA 5JZ class via the chimney and right onto the pillar. Route No. 5 to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Krákorky
UIAA 7Z class from the fore-rock to the NE, traverse left into a wider crack, follow it… Rock Climbing
7-
Krákorky
UIAA cl. 7-Right of the S edge via a small crack into a corner and in it via a crack over… Rock Climbing
5
Kozina
UIAA 5 class from the upper plateau side between Kozina and Hanči, by stemming/bridging… Rock Climbing
3
Krákorky
UIAA 3 class from the North from the fore-rock via the chimney and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
9
Kankrlíček
From SW via a small crack and face to the 1st and 2nd rings. Along the edge to the ledge… Rock Climbing
3
Krákorky
UIAA cl. 3In the SW face via a crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing

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