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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8
Čórten
UIAA grade 8. From the South, via small pillars (ring) behind the edge into a crack,… Rock Climbing
6+
Čórten
UIAA grade 6+. Along the SE wall to the ring. Aid climbing, via a crack and chimney to… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Oškobrh
At the South edge, via the corner crack to the balcony to the bolt. Via the small corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Dvojník
UIAA grade 4. From the South via the corner and chimney to the sub-summit. Via the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Syneček
In the plateau (SE) wall via a crack to the flake. To the right, up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Syneček
From the ring to the right and up the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Syneček
To the left in the plateau wall onto a ledge. Via a crack to another ledge, left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Šipzároš
To the left of the plateau edge via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tomahavk
From the pillar below the S wall, from the drop, by building up and up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Mamička
On the plateau (SE) side of the tower via small ledges to the ring, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Mamička
From the pillar on the valley side, up the wall to the left (added ring and 2nd ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Ferda
Up the right part of the SE wall to the balcony and via a crack to the pre-summit. Then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ferda
To the left of the western edge via a crack to the pre-summit and then via the 'Madlenka'… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Felina
From Jehlička to the left via the chimney in the corner to a ledge, descend right and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ferda
To the right of the plateau (southern) edge via a crack to the pre-summit. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bedřich
Via the valley crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Outloň váhavý
From the pillars on the NE side of the tower by stepping over and a crack in the corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Outloň váhavý
Up the left part of the NE wall to the block. Via a crack to the pre-summit and then via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Skořepka
Uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Rosignano
From the uphill side by wall right to the ledge and along it right over the north edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Rosignano
East edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bedřich
From the wide plateau chimney (from NE) via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Rosignano
Up the wall to the left of the valley edge to the ring, along the valley edge over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kapoun
Left uphill edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Palivec
Between 'Palivec' and 'Baloun' by chimney, from the stemming/opposition by aid climbing… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Skořepka
Left on the valley (NW) side of the tower by corner crack and higher up right traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rytíř Žumbera
NE crack to the end, by aid climbing/technical climbing and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Jára Cimrman
Uphill wall to the ring, by fissure and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kadet Biegler
Center of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kadet Biegler
From the W edge right to the S edge and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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