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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Mošna
Between the routes "Elegant" and "Club out of the Bag" via cracks to the 1st ring, step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mošna
In the right part of the plateau gorge, via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +2
6
Mošna
Via the NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
5+
Mošna
From the inner space on the valley side of the tower via a chimney and crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Mošna
In the middle of the W face via a crack (ring) to a shelf in the chimney. By stemming to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
8+/9-
Mošna
Via the "Elegant" crack to its 1st ring, along the edge and slightly left along the face … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Mošna
In the left part of the valley NW face via a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Mošna
To the right in the NE face, by a crack to a small pillar (ring). Along the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Mošna
SW via a crack and chimney to a block in the southern vicinity of the tower. By jump/leap… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mošna
To the left of the Old Route via the face to a small crack and via it to the platform.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Roraima
In the gully/between-towers on the upland side via a crack to the pillar. By overhang and… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Roraima
Along the E edge over 6 rings to the summit. (3rd ring = 2nd ring of the Vakace route) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mošna
In the left part of the upland (SE) gully/gorge via a corner crack over two overhangs to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
5+
Rádža
In the right part of the NE face via a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Pacínek
Via the valley crack and a system of fissures to the shelf. Via the Upland Crack route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pacínek
Via the upland crack to the shelf and via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rádža
In the left part of the NE face via a fissure and crack to the ring. Right by standing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sultán
From the 2nd ring of the Návesníkova route, traverse left behind the edge, via a fissure… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Sultán
From the upland side via stemming and a small chimney/sokolík to a small pillar. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Rádža
To the left of the southern edge via the overgrown face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Rádža
3 rings Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Kvakvakvokoax
Via the upland edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvakvakvokoax
Via the chimney from the upland side to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Psance
To the right of route Díravý mince (Holey Coin) via a chimney to the pillar. Via a crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sultán
From the SE via a chimney to a ledge and traverse right along it to the 1st ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Psance
From the saddle from the western edge, left via the face and a curved crack to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hvízdavý Dan
In the right part of the SE face via a crack and chimney to the sub-summit. Old route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hvízdavý Dan
To the right of the Old Route via a crack and face to the sub-summit. Old route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Psance
From the SE via stemming (against the Hvízdavý Dan pillar) and a crack to the ring. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hvízdavý Dan
From the north, via a chimney to a block. Left by crack to the ring, (stemming from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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