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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Podhoubí
From the south, via a chimney to the pillar and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2
Podhoubí
Via the upper (NW) chimney to the pillars and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Malá starostová
Start via the route "Stavěcí - i.e., with significant aiding" to the ledge. Traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Setmělík
From the SE, via a crack in the corner to the plateau. Via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Setmělík
As the original (route) to the plateau, then left along it and via a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Malá starostová
From the SW, via a chimney and over blocks to the pillar. With significant aiding and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Citrónová
Through the middle of the upper wall (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Mecháček
Along the upper edge to the pillar and from the overhang by aiding to the ring. Aiding… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Citrónová
From the upper side, by aiding to the ledge, then diagonally right along it and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Citrónová
Via the right part of the upper wall and from the right along the block to a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Citrónová
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Helma
At the western edge, via a small crack to its end, right along the wall and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Nick
Up the wall along the left plateau edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Blembák
Via Saxon body stacking technique at the right edge of the 1st Q, traverse left in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Blembák
Via a variant of the 'Long' route to Přilba (Helmet) to the platform. Left via the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Blembák
Via the chimney between Přilba (Helmet) and Blembak into the crack and via it to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Batyskaf
Via the chimney of the 'World of Silence' route (at the eastern edge of the tower) for… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Baronesa
From the rim/edge, by a jump to the balcony and then left via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4
Batyskaf
Between Batyskaf and Přilba (Helmet), via the chimney, higher up by stemming to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Leslie
Via the right SW crack to the pre-summit and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Leslie
Via the chimney from the N. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Leslie
From the SW, via the left chimney to the saddle and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Klakvakrakve
On the left on the NW side of the tower, via a dihedral, then a crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Klakvakrakve
From the SW, via the corner crack into the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Klakvakrakve
Start as for 'Vnitřní' (Inner). Directly via the chimney and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Klakvakrakve
From the corner on the SE side of the tower, via a crawl into the chimney and up it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Leslie
Overhang from Klakvakrakve and shortly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ringo
Via the valley crack to the ledge and then via the Friendly Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pikoušek
Up the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ringo
From the SW, via a chimney to the ledge, then left along it to the ring and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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