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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Trojník
In the right part of the plateau wall, up the crack and chimney to the saddle. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Alpská
To the right of the left valley edge, up the crack (1st ring) to the ledge in the alcove.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Alpská
Following the crack climbers' route to the ring, traverse left to the edge and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Alpská
To the right of the S corner, up the wall into the corner crack, then (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Šefildská věž
From SW, ascend via a chimney to the crack and along it to a smaller pillar. Via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Šefildská věž
Along the upper edge to a smaller pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šefildská věž
Left of the upper (eastern) edge, ascend via a corner crack to a smaller pillar and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5+
Bragliho věž
From SW, ascend via a crack to the balcony. Build up right to the edge, along it, and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Krokodýl
From the valley from NW, ascend the wall into the corner, then through it over the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Krokodýl
In the left part of the NE face, diagonally right under the overhang to the ring. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Krokodýl
Follow route "Bike or Climbing" to the large ledge with a pine tree, then right via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Krokodýl
From the NE, ascend via the chimney between Krokodyl and the pillar, step over, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Krokodýl
In the right part of the SE face, ascend via a shallow chimney and crack to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Krokodýl
Follow route "Sakrekér" to the 1st ring, then ascend the pyrite wall slightly right (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Krokodýl
From SW, ascend via a crack to a small platform and traverse the wall right to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Krokodýl
From the platform of route Sahrekér, ascend the wall (3 rings) to the pillar. Left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Krokodýl
From the north via a crack (ring) to the 2nd ring. Via a small crack and a short chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Krokodýl
From the start of the "Crocodile Dundee" route, left via a crack to a small balcony. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Krokodýl
From the upper fore-rock on the left, ascend via a double crack, a crack (ring), and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Lalubi
Between Lalubi and Divá Bára (from NW) via a wide crack to the ring. To the left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Amok
From SE via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Amok
Via the NW crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Zamazaná
From the staircase of the tourist path, ascend under the overhang and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zamazaná
In the left part of the SW wall, via a chimney to the small pillar and to the right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zamazaná
To the left of the north corner, follow a system of cracks to the ring. To the right, two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Caparti
From SE (between Caparty and the block) from a discrepancy with a crack and to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Caparti
To the right of the route "From the Gorge" via a wide crack and chimney to the pillar. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Caparti
By opposition against Culík, through a crack and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Lidový vypravěč
Along the Sedmilhářská route to the blocks and up the wall along the crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Lidový vypravěč
To the left on the south side of the tower, through a crack to the blocks, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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