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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Křídlo
From the NE, along vegetated steps into the gully, from there traverse left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Křídlo
From the crack of the Bird's Route variant, traverse right up the wall (ring) to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Křídlo
From the upper side, up the wall to the right to the crack and via it to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Křídlo
On the west edge, via a crack to the ring and traverse left on the ledge. Up the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Křídlo
To the right of the west edge, via a chimney to the ledge, then left along it and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pipp
From the upper side, via a stem and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Strážce Smaragdové rokle
Up the valley wall (2 rings) to the 3rd ring. Up the wall directly along the crack, or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Tři bratři
From the traverse of the New Route, left on the SE wall, via a crack to the pillar. Then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pipp
Directly up the left upper edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pipp
Via the left valley crack to the gendarme. Traverse right up the wall and via a crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Tři bratři
From the block of the West Route, traverse left up the wall to the balcony. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Tři bratři
From the upper side, traverse left through a chimney into the inner space. Via a system… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tři bratři
Rock Climbing
4
Tři bratři
From the SW, via a chimney to the block, then a crack and a chimney to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Tři bratři
From the upper side, via a crack to the small pillar, traverse right up the wall and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Tři bratři
From the NE edge of the inner chimney, via a crack to the right to the balcony. Via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Serafíno
From the NE, via a system of chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tři bratři
In the right part, via a chimney to the pillar to Q, up the wall under the overhang, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Serafíno
From the valley side (with aid) via a system of cracks (1st ring) to the balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Serafíno
From the W, via a long chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lembejk
From the path on the SE side, up the chimney to the saddle, up the chimney and crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Trojník
To the left of the Lupénka route, alternately via crack, fissure, and gully into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Trojník
To the right of the Old Route, up the cracks to the small platform. Above it, with aid… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Řeřicha
To the right of the 'Letecký den' route, from the intermediate tower, up the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Trojník
In the right part of the valley wall, through cracks to the saddle and from the right up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Trojník
Along the edge directly to the ring of the Sláva trudu route and further along the edge… Rock Climbing
6
Trojník
Center of the valley wall and up the crack to the saddle. Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Trojník
To the left of the Old Route, up the crack below the overhang, over it, traverse left on… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
10
Alpská
From the 4th ring of the Encián route, directly up the edge to the 6th ring and to the… Rock Climbing
5
Trojník
Left crack in the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall

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