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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Lidový vypravěč
Through the NE crack and chimney into the widening. To the right, via the gully to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lidový vypravěč
To the right of the Sedmilhářská route, through a wide crack to the pillar of the Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Kupido
Along the "Stupido" route to the 2nd circle and further along the ramp to the right edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Kupido
From the small hill over the chapel roof to the western edge (1st Q), via an oblique… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Uhlířská
From the NE via opposition to the ring, then a crack and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Uhlířská
To the right of the start of Údolní cesta (Valley Way) via a system of cracks and an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Uhlířská
Via the Hojbařská spára route into the hole and from the left into the small cave (or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Uhlířská
In the left part of the NW wall via a small crack under the overhang, traversing the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4+
Uhlířská
Via the uphill chimney (from Milenci) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Uhlířská
From the uphill side (about 8m left of the start of the "Old Way") via a crack to the end… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Uhlířská
Via the "Údolní komín" (Valley Chimney) route into the cave and out via a crack over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4
Sfingička
Via the uphill (SE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4-
Pometlo
From the chimney of the Traverse route, right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Krávoš
Via the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hermafrodit
In the valley wall, via a crack and a corner to the ring, over the shelves to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hermafrodit
In the SW wall, traverse right and through the left chimney to the end, then briefly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pometlo
From the uphill side, traverse right to the ledge of the valley wall and through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Pometlo
At the right valley edge, 2 meters up the chimney. Traverse left into the corner. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Pometlo
Via the valley chimney from the NW, higher up via a step-across and along the edge past 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Eros
From the uphill side, up the wall from the left to the balcony and via a narrow corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Eros
To the right of the south corner, via a fissure and a crack in the corner (1st ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Amor
Via the uphill route under the overhang, left up the wall (1st ring) and via a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Eros
To the right of the start of the Uphill Route to Amor, via a crack to the saddle. Through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Amor
From the uphill side, via a system of cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Gondola
In the left part of the uphill wall, via climbing moves into the ledge and left via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Amorek
From the south, via the chimney and the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Gondola
From the north (about 7m left of the Deja-Vu route) up the steps and through the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Amor
From the valley (NE) side, via the chimney under the overhang and left via a crack (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6
Amor
To the left of the chimney of the Valley Route, through a fissure directly into the crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6-
Gondola
A short route to the lower balcony, traverse the wall to the left to the ring and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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