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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Užovka
From NE (between Užovka and Hadí) via a crack, higher up via an off-width chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Cherubín
Via the left NE crack and chimney to the plateau. Then via the traverse route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Cherubín
In the right part of the NE wall (between Cherubin and the block) via a crack over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Cherubín
Left of the Viva Rita route via a narrow crack into a chimney, through it and a crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Cherubín
Via a crack into the chimney and by the "Straddle" route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Cherubín
Right of the route "Children's Cry" via a narrow crack to the ring. Via a crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Cherubín
Right of the Viva Rita route via a crack to the pillars and left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Cherubín
From the summit of Adam and Eve by jumping onto the balcony to the ring and then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Cherubín
In the right part of the SW wall in the corner via a falconet-like feature and the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Cherubín
In the middle of the SW wall via a system of cracks into a chimney, then by crawling… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Cherubín
From the SW via a chimney between Cherubin and Majka to the saddle. From the left up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Adam a Eva
From the NE via a chimney under the overhang and left along the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Adam a Eva
Right of the North Route via a falconet-like feature and chimney to the ring. Then via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Moceček
Up the SE wall right, 1st pitch into the corner, then 2nd pitch through it and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Adam a Eva
From the SW via a chimney into the interior. Right via a crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kotě
Along the valley edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Moceček
Up the high (SW) wall diagonally right over a small balcony (ring) and along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
3
Kotě
From the block at the right high edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Vintentou
Up the high wall to the saddle and then via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Vintentou
In the right part of the valley (eastern) wall via a corner crack, traverse left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Čtyři panny
By the right NE crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4-
Čtyři panny
By the middle SW crack over the overhang and by a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Pryskyřník
In the upper (NW) wall along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyři panny
By the middle NE crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4+
Čtyři panny
By the left NE crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4-
Čtyři panny
By the left SW corner crack to the 'leaf' and along the narrow crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Nuncius
In the left part of the valley wall by a crack, higher up left by the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Nuncius
From SE by the right part of the valley wall (4 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Padesátá první hvězdička
From the upper side by a chimney in the corner to the pillar. By stemming and a small… Rock Climbing
4+
Vikýřník
By the right part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger

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