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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Doskočiště
From the upper side by the right chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Zapomnětlivec
From SW by a crack and chimney (pine) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Doskočiště
From SE by a gully and chimney to the pillar. Via the 'Downhill to Uphill' route to the… Rock Climbing
2
Zejval
By a short chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Doskočiště
By the left upper chimney to the pillar. Traverse to the second pillar and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
4
Veselá kráva
In the right part of the valley wall by a crack to the fore-summit and c. "Automatic… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Veselá kráva
From the valley side by a crack to the pillar. Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Veselá kráva
From the upper side by a chimney and edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Smolíček pacholíček
Along the upper edge and left by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Šmírácká vyhlídka
By the corner chimney to the balcony and along fine small ledges to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tlusťoch
From the passage between Bulík and Tlusťoch by a slanted crack to the end (ring). Lift to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Smolíček pacholíček
Through the chimney in the valley (SW) wall to the pillar (ring), traverse and by a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Rejpal
Via the valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Punková věžička
Via a chimney and higher up via the wall along the left edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rejpal
Via the upper wall from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Malý vyzobanec
Via the wall along the east edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Narozeninová jehla
Via the upper edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Peršing
Via a chimney through the constriction to the ring. Left into the wall and via it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kvarteto
Via the crack separating the tower, start from Marjánka. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Malý vyzobanec
Via the upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Malý vyzobanec
Via a crack from NW and the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kvarteto
Through a narrow passage under the valley wall. Via the right wide crack to the fore… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvarteto
From S via a narrow chimney along the crack, later via a chimney to the pillar. Crossing… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kvarteto
Via a wide crack from the valley to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kvarteto
Via the crack separating the tower. Start from the passage from Zapadlá. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Kvarteto
By stemming between Kavartet and Zapadlá věž to the ring and then up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Kurfiřt
Via a small chimney to the valley pillar (1st ring), demanding climbing to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Hona
Via the NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Eden
Rock Climbing
6
Bedýnka
In the valley wall, by bridging, through a fissure (ring) and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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