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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Radní posel
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Radní posel
NW chimney to the ring. In the ledge right, via a chimney and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Komíňák
From the balcony of the Town Hall Messenger, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Komíňák
From the 4th abseil anchor of Starostová, left into the chimney and up it, at the top a… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Komíňák
Via the Old Route to Starostová up to the platform and left via a crack to its 4th abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Starostová
Start via the Old Route, then inside to the right, via a chimney and continuously right… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Starostová
To the left of the start of the Ilja's Legacy route to Starostová, via a chimney to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
From SW via a conical chimney to the first pillar to the 1st ring. Left up the wall (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Starostová
To the left of the Wedding as a Belt route via a chimney (ring) to the pillar. Right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Starostová
Via the “Ilja's Legacy” route to the first pillar to the abseil ring. Very delicately up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
To the left of the start of the route “Akademik as a pig”, initially via the pyrite crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
Left of the start of the "Doplněk" route (to Whale) by crack through the hole to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
Via the "Doplněk" route (to Whale) to the ring and below it left by ramp and wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malá protěž
From the 1st ring right by wall to the shelf (ring). By aid climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malá protěž
From the plateau side by opposition (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Pranýř
By dihedral and eastern edge over four rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Pranýř
Rock Climbing
8-/8
Pranýř
From the south freely to the block (ring). By shallow groove, higher up by rarely dry… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Pranýř
From the north by chimney to the platform, left to the ring (aid from a sling/harness)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Pranýř
From the tourist path left of "Sarkova" route by crack (ring) directly into "Sarkova"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pranýř
From the ring of Sarka's route by opposition (2nd ring), overhang and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Velký konšel
Via the "Leap" route to the 1st ring and a crack on the Great Councillor's wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Velký konšel
After the leap, right up the wall (ring), gully, and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Velký konšel
Via the "Leap" route to the 1st ring and by bridging to the 2nd ring. Along the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Velký konšel
On the valley side (left of the chimney) by crack (1st ring) and notch right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Velký konšel
Via the uphill (SW) chimney to the 1st ring and via a crack or chimney to the Small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Dalibor
Left on the NW face, via a crack (ring) to the 2nd ring and left into the "begging crack"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Dalibor
From the uphill side, up a crack to the pre-summit and then a begging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dalibor
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Štěpánská koruna
At the southern corner, ascend the chimney to a block. Along the face following the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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