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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
Via the Skalní pych route to the block. Traverse and ascend the face to the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Štěpánská koruna
Opposite the Old Route, from the SE face to the pillar. Through the chimney and up the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Štěpánská koruna
In the middle of the SE face, ascend a chimney to a block and a crack to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
To the right of the chimney of the Cat's Ballet route by the wall, a small crack and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Štěpánská koruna
In the left part of the SE face from the terrace, ascend the face to the pillar, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Štěpánská koruna
To the right of the start of the Lower Variant of the Valley Edge by cracks into the cave… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Štěpánská koruna
In the right part of the SE wall by a chimney, a crack to the ring, (with aid from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Štěpánská koruna
By the East Crack route to the large hourglass and traverse by the wall right to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Štěpánská koruna
From the 4th ring by the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Štěpánská koruna
To the left of the north edge by a crack to a small platform and by the wall left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Štěpánská koruna
From the edge of the Terrace by the wall left to the balcony. Descend by a crack about… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Právo
From the NW from the fore-summit by a chimney and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Právo
From the block on the NE side of the tower by the wall (1st ring) and a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Právo
From the valley side to the left of the chimney by a narrow chimney, the wall, the edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Právo
At the left upper corner with aid and a small crack left to the balcony. Left by the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Nevěstinec
Via Soho to the balcony below the NW wall. In the right part of the wall by a crack, a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kelpie
From the terrace SE by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kelpie
From the south by chimney to the wedged block to the ring. Around the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Nevěstinec
The start is right of the east edge of the tower. By crack to the pillar and along it by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Nevěstinec
Left in the upper wall to an overgrown ledge, along it left and by edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kapusta
From NW by slab to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Káňátko
From NE from the block by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Káňátko
In the SW wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Káňátko
Left of the N edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Štěbenec
From the south by chimney and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hanbinec
By the upper chimney and crawl through the rock window to the saddle. By wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Štěbenec
From the block on the NE side by wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hanbinec
In the middle of the valley (NE) wall by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Blbinec
Rock Climbing
7/7+
Blbinec
In the valley wall by a crack in the pillar to a large wedged boulder. By crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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