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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Bedýnka
Via the plateau crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Kamarádská
From the 3rd ring, via the wall and a gully (ring) to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kamarádská
From the SW, via a wide crack and chimney to the pre-summit. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6+/7-
Kamarádská
Right of the 'Komín' (Chimney) route, via the wall and a small ridge to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Kamarádská
Left of the western corner, by bridging on the block and via a small ridge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Kamarádská
From the block, up the wall along the rounded southern edge (2 rings) to the 3rd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kvakoň
Rock Climbing
4-
Kvakoň
At the western edge, up the wall along a shallow gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kvakoň
By NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Velryba
Approach along the right valley edge, diagonally up the wall (4 rings) below the crack of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Velryba
From the gorge on the plateau (SW) side via a chimney between the Whale and the President… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Velryba
On the plateau side between the pillars and the President's Advisor via a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Velryba
By bridging against Starostová's Daughter to the 1st ring, which is set in the wall of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Velryba
Via the Old route without aid climbing to the beginning of the crack, to the left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Starostova dcera
Along the right crack to the ledge, traverse left into the crack on it and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Starostova dcera
From the valley (NE) side by aid climbing and along a crack (ring) to the balcony. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Velryba
At the southern edge with significant building (stacking) and a wall (1st ring) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9
Starostova dcera
SW Edge over two rings and to the left along the crack and without aid climbing to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Starostova dcera
By bridging against the Whale to the overhanging rib and along it to the 1st ring (the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Starostova dcera
Through the uphill chimney between Starostová's Daughter and Vnouče, higher up via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Starostova dcera
In the left part of the uphill (SW) face, via a crack to the balcony and a corner crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Vnouče
From the SW via a wide crack to the pillar. Along the wall to the ring and (by aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Vnouče
From the valley (NE) side, via a chimney and crack to the balcony. Along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Vnouče
Through the uphill chimney, higher up via a crack to the detached block and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vnouče
From the SE fore-rock via small cracks to the balcony of the route "Grandpa's Little Luck… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vnouče
From the valley side, through the chimney between Vnouče and Starostová's Daughter (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Radní posel
From NW via a chimney and crack to the platform. Step over, via a chimney and wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Radní posel
From the SW tourist path via a crack and chimney to a ledge and along it right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Radní posel
From the tourist path, along the left part of the SW face, left to the 1st and 2nd rings.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Komíňák
Via the "Pivní transfúze" (Beer Transfusion) route to the abseil ring - via the Old Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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