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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Kravinec
From the valley (SE) side by crack and chimney into the gap between towers. Right by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kravinec
From W from the valley by a double crack in the corner, higher by a wide crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Blbinec
By the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lojzinec
By the upper (SW) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lojzinec
By the valley (NE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Slepice
Through the crack (ring) to the small balcony, further along the edge (3 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Slepice
Route from the saddle to Kohouta to the plateau. From the left along the stepped edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Slepice
From the valley (NE) side, by crack into the cave and by crack over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Opatovická
On the SW side of the tower (from the outer parts) through the chimney to the first… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mojžíš
Along the northern edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Opatovická
To the right of the NW edge through the opposing chimney (2 rings) and crack to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Svatý Václav
From SW through the chimney to the fore-summit, short descent, overhang (from opposition… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Opatovická
Through the valley chimney to the ledge, from there right (ring) through the little… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Svatý Václav
In the right part of the valley (NE) wall, through a system of cracks to the flake. Using… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Mata horn
Along the right uphill (western) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kuli
Up the wall and crack from SE n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mata horn
From the valley (NE) side through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mata horn
Up the uphill chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kuli
Short uphill edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Péro
Up the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Péro
Up the right part of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Goliáš
From the summit of the tower "Feather", descend the wall into the chimney, traverse to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Péro
From the uphill side, down 10m through the chimney and to the right. Up the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Goliáš
From the center of the plateau gorge, via a chimney and crack directly into the wide… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
8-/8
Goliáš
Right of the W edge, via cracks left (1st ring) left onto the western edge via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Goliáš
From the NE (with extensive aid) up the chimney over the overhang into a crack (added 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Goliáš
Up the chimney left of the Blue Crack to the pillar, right via a crack (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Goliáš
Left of the Blue Crack, up the chimney and via opposition to the ring, left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Goliáš
From the plateau gorge, descend ten meters via a chimney. Traverse to the ledge and left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+
Arcteryx
Via the route 'Faint Traces of Reason' to the vegetated ledge. Right onto the edge and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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