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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Jelen
From the southern fore-summit by stepping over to the ledge, along it traversing left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
10
Jelen
Up the eastern wall from the indentation to the left edge and along it over pitons (hours… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Zuzinka
Along the southern edge to the ledge, up the wall over the ear (pyrite), ring. Then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Prďola
1 ring Rock Climbing
5
Prďola
Along the northern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kačerovo hnízdo
To the left on the NW side of the tower, from the block by climbing/building and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kajmánek
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kačerovo hnízdo
On the right, on the NW side of the tower, by a broken crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Prďola
From the uphill side (NW) by chimney to the pillar and on to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Novoměstská
From Malostranské towers (from SE) via chimneys, to the right via a gully and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Novoměstská
In the left part of the SW face via the chimney, higher up traverse left in the ledge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Novoměstská
From the E, up the wall and via the left gully to the ring. Up the slabby wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Novoměstská
Via a crack in the SW corner to the pillar and up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Předměstská
From the SE, briefly up the chimney to the ring, to the left up the wall and via a gully … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Předměstská
In the left part of the NW face, via the chimney to the pre-summit and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Předměstská
In the left part of the SW face, along the ledge and via the chimney to the block. By… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Předměstská
From the ledge, up the wall along the western edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Předměstská
To the right on the SW side of the tower, via the chimney to the block. By stepping over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Špejchar
On the valley (NW) side of the tower, from the block via a crack (1st ring), to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Špejchar
From the southern edge, through the passage in the chimney to the eastern edge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Špejchar
From the blocks from the SW, up the slabby wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Špejchar
Via the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Geniální Horác
From the valley side, via an opposition move (or wide crack) and up the wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Geniální Horác
From the chimney via the right valley edge (hourglass and 5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Enšpígl
Via the Shadow Route for three meters, up the wall to the right beyond the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Číman
Via the plateau (northern) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Enšpígl
From the gorge below Mustafa, up the chimney to the wide crack, via the overhang and wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Enšpígl
Via the northern edge to the ledge, along it left into the saddle and along the southern… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Číman
From the valley via falcon cracks and to the right up the wall to the ring. Up the slabby… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Mustafa
To the left of the northern edge, up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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