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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Mustafa
To the right of the southern edge (from the block), traverse the wall left over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mustafa
Via the left part of the NW face to the ledge, along it up the wall to the right onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mustafa
In the middle of the SE face, up the diagonal gully (1st ring), through the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Mustafa
In the right part of the valley wall (in the chimney from Enšpígl), up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Mustafa
Via the Serpentiny route to the 1st ring. Up the wall along the edge (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Mustafa
Up the chimney between Enšpígl and Mustafa to the ledge (hour glass), up the wall into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mustafa
Through the crack to the ledge (crossing the Traverzová cesta) and up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6
Mustafa
From the plateau side (near the eastern edge), up the chimney to the ledge and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mustafa
From the traverse of the Traverzová cesta (Traverse Route), up the gully (ring) and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mustafa
From the SE, up the right gully, higher up directly along the wall over the ledge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tanečnice
On the right in the plateau, build a stance and up the wall (2 rings) to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Tanečnice
From the valley up the chimney to the ledge (hour glass), traverse right and up the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tanečnice
Up the plateau wall to the left to the edge and along it below the summiting Rocking… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Malostranská věž
From the NW, up the right chimney to the small tower. Step over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Tanečnice
From the NW, up the chimney to the small pillar, along the steps and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Malostranská věž
Briefly up the chimney of route "Slunečná" (Sunny), higher up via a narrow crack on the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
8+/9-
Malostranská věž
Via the Hřbitovní kvítí (Cemetery Flowers) route to the ring and directly along the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Malostranská věž
In the right part of the NW face, via a crack in the corner over an overhang and a notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malostranská věž
The entry is between the Lesser Town Tower and the French Towers. Up the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malostranská věž
Left on the SW side of the tower via a small chimney and crack to the ring. In the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Malostranská věž
From the NW, up the opposing chimney (ring) to the 2nd ring, up the wall to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Malostranská věž
The start is the same as the Mundi's Wall route on the French Towers. Up the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Francouzské věže
From the SW from the area between the French Towers and Malostranská Tower, via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Francouzské věže
Up the left NW chimney and along the western edge of the north tower to its summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Francouzské věže
From the NE in the corner, up the chimney to the pillar. Traverse and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Francouzské věže
From the SE, from the space between the French Towers and the Lesser Town Tower, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Francouzské věže
Via the chimney from the NE between Gaskoňec and the small pillar, left up the small wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Francouzské věže
On the SW side of the tower (between the French Towers and Vngng), via a crack, higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Francouzské věže
Via the left chimney 8m, right via a crack and chimney above the ledge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Francouzské věže
From the ring, left along the edge and straight (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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