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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Uran
From the 2nd ring directly by cracks, higher up by a wide crack to the plateau of the Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Uran
By the left NE crack (1st ring) to the 2nd ring. Left by crack to the balcony, in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Uran
Left on the NE side of the tower by the right wavy crack into the widening, climb through… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Uran
By beginner's route to Venus into the small saddle and crossing right to the plateau. By… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Uran
By the right NE crack and chimney below the overhang. By crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Uran
Right on the NE side of the tower by building and wall left to the 1st ring. By building… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Uran
By the left plateau (northern) edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Pluto
From the plateau side, traverse left in the ledge behind the northern edge. By opposition… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Saturn
From the gully between Mars and Saturn in the Mars wall by crack to the 1st ring, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Saturn
In the right part of the NE face of the tower, by opposition (between Saturn and Mars) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Pluto
Valley (SE) crack to the ring and right wall to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pluto
The start is in the inter-tower gap between Pluto and Mars. Up the wall to the left over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Jupiter
Up the right uphill crack over the pillar to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek' route… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Jupiter
Up the wall of the uphill pillar to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek' route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Jupiter
Up the left SW crack over the pillar to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek' route to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Jupiter
Through the valley chimney to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Jupiter
From the SW, up the steps to the right to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek' route to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Jupiter
From the SW, up the right corner over the pillar to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek'… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Jupiter
From the uphill side, through the chimney in the corner to the pre-summit. Up the small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Jupiter
To the left of the 'Koutek' (Corner) route, up the crack to the ledge with a ring. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Gamin
Start at the south corner of the tower. Directly up the wall to the 2nd Veitinger ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Jupiter
Up the center of the uphill wall to the 1st ring, then up the falcon crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Jupiter
Up the left falcon crack on the east face to the ledge with the ring of route "Tornádo Lů… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Gamin
From the foot of the east edge along the cracks directly to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Gamin
From the highest point of the terrain, traverse the face diagonally left to the west edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Gamin
The start is below the valley (south) corner. Up the face diagonally right to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Gamin
4m to the left of the start of the “Direttissima” route, by a corner and a recess to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Věstonická Venuše
From the massif, descend and cross over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Věstonická Venuše
By a chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sirius
Rock Climbing

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