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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Fánek
From the south via a corner and crack to the pillar, then via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Fánek
From the saddle, via the overgrown face to the right, up to below the summit head, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Věž dvou kamarádů
Near the N edge of the tower via a small chimney/arete to a shelf and via the face (two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věž dvou kamarádů
From the SE via a shallow crack to the 1st ring. Via a small chimney/arete and a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Magistr
Rock Climbing
8-/8
Magistr
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Trubadúrek
From the ring of the 'It was nothing' route, right along the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Trubadúrek
From the ring of the 'It was nothing' route, left to the edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Trubadúrek
Via the upper crack and face to the ring. By building/aid and right via the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Magistr
Via the valley chimney, higher up through cracks to the balcony to the 1st ring (aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Günter
From the inter-towers (from Herny) via the upper face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Günter
in the valley wall Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Günter
From the inter-towers via a crack near the eastern corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Herna
Right of the eastern corner of the pillar via a system of cracks and a crack to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Herna
In the left part of the upper (SW) wall via a chimney and a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vizionář
From the block on the eastern side of the tower via a step-across and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vizionář
Via the Náhorní (Upper/Highland) wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Herna
Up the dirty crack-chimney in the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kárové eso
In the valley wall via a crack, higher up along the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kárové eso
From the SW via a layback on a block, up the wall left and via a crack to the ring. With… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Falešný hráč
From the SW via a layback between Falešný hráčem (False Player) and Károvým esem (Diamond… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Falešný hráč
Right of the route Zelená louka (Green Meadow) via a layback to the added ring, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Falešný hráč
To the right on the SW side of the tower with significant aid climbing, up a crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Domov důchodců
SW chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Domov důchodců
Left of the Old Route via the crack chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Falešný hráč
Left of the eastern edge via a crack to the balcony and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Falešný hráč
Via the Southern Edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Domov důchodců
From the valley (NW) side via a layback on a block to the ledge, then traverse left on it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Cukrovarský komín
Up the center of the southeast face via eight rings to the summit. The first ring is by…
5
Karbaník
Through the chimney between Karbanik and Kibic to the ring, up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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