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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Sirius
Rock Climbing
4
Sirius
From E by a narrow crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Sirius
To the right on the plateau side by a short chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sirius
To the left in the east face by a prominent crack to a ledge. To the right by the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Merkur
By the left SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Merkur
In the middle of the SW face by a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Merkur
In the chimney of the path 'Komínem', through the chimney and a window traverse to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Merkur
By the right SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Merkur
From SW by the second crack from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Merkur
Up the valley face via two rings and a pine tree to the fore-summit. Arbitrarily to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bojs
In the left part of the NE face, by a crack to a hole, by a crack to a ledge and in it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Nebojsa
To the left of the north corner, by cracks and a chimney to a small platform. By the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Nebojsa
From SW by a chimney to a pillar and to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bojs
From the SW flank, via a crack and chimney to the valley side and to the balcony. By wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Mučednický kůl
From S, via a small ridge to the final edge of "Zelené mučení" (Green Torture). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mučednický kůl
The approach is from a ledge on the NE side of the tower. Via the East edge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mučednický kůl
Via a chimney and wall along the North edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Tamango
Via the Corrida route, to the 1st ring. By wall to the right and along the edge (3 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Tamango
To the left of the Giant Chimney route, via a prominent corner into the gap between… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tamango
From the right edge of the SE wall, via a crack to the 1st ring. Traverse left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tamango
From the start of the Corrida route, diagonally left along the wall, via a flake (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Tamango
To the left of the route "Návrat vojenských zběhů" (Return of the Military Deserters),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Tamango
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tamango
From the prominent SW corner, via a chimney to the saddle, then by opposition/stemming… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tamango
Approach via the Giant Chimney route, through a passage to the opposite side of the tower… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Manitou
From Tomahawk to Manitou. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Žlebská kvočna
From the northeast, traverse left in the ledge to the 1st ring. Left via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Žlebská kvočna
Via the upper crack to a shelf and via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rusákovo nebe
Via the west ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rusákovo nebe
From the west ridge, via a broken face to the north ridge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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