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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Karbaník
From SE, by crack to the small pillar. Up the wall to the right to the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Karbaník
In the right part of the upper gorge, up the chimney, by opposition and crack (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Karbaník
From the gorge via a layback (Kibic) to the ledge, then left to the crack of the Western… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Karbaník
SE crack to the plateau, up the wall and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Karbaník
Left on the NE side of the tower from the balcony, up the chimney and by crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Karbaník
In the right part of the SE wall, through the fissure (1st ring) to the end and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Karbaník
Between the Bulka and Poker routes, by crack into the cave. Via the Poker route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7+/8-
Karbaník
Up the valley wall, by crack and small fissure (2 rings) and via the “Poker” route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Karbaník
To the right of the eastern edge, by crack into the cave and left up the wall to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Karbaník
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Karbaník
Via the Taročky route to the ring. Diagonally left up the wall to the 2nd ring. Left up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Karbaník
From the start of the Northwest Chimney route, along the ledge to the left to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Karbaník
At the northern corner, up the chimney to the block. Overhang, left up the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Karbaník
From the valley side (left of the northern edge), by small crack to the ledge, left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Karbaník
In the right part of the NE wall, up the chimney, from there up the wall to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Karbaník
From the gorge, up the wall along the western edge and by crack over the small plateau to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Karbaník
From the western corner, traverse left on the ledge to the edge. Up the wall (ring) over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Kibic
Via the route “Ace in the Sleeve” to the 1st ring and directly up the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kostelíček
Along the left upper (northern) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kostelíček
Along the southern edge (from Kominíček) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Koledníček
Via the right valley (NE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Koledníček
Via the left valley (NE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Koledníček
At the east corner, via a corner crack to the fore-summit. Follow the Hody, hody route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Koledníček
Via the offwidth/chimney between Koledníček and Kominíček all the way to the end and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Koledníček
From the plateau side, via a chimney to the fore-summit and along the edge to the main… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Soupeřská
Briefly up the 'End of Monarchy' route, left up the wall (ring) and via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Vovísek
Via the 'Rozpor' route to the ledge, then a wider offwidth/chimney and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-
Soupeřská
To the right of the route 'Western Edge' via a sharp edge (3 rings) and right into 'Glory… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Vovísek
From the plateau side, via an offwidth/chimney to the ledge and left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Vovísek
From the edge, by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing

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