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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Gilotina - malá věž
From the SE side, up the crack and chimney (1st ring) to the ledge of the Žabí route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Gilotina - malá věž
From the summit of "Koš na hlavy" (Basket for Heads), by abseil and to the right along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Gilotina - malá věž
From the 2nd ring, go right via the corner crack to the sub-peak. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5+
Gilotina - malá věž
The ascent starts left of the 'Eastern Chimney' route. From the block, by building, a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Gilotina - malá věž
The ascent starts on the eastern side of the tower complex. Up the chimney to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Gilotina - malá věž
From the internal space of the tower complex, through the chimney and window to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Revizor
From the upper side, traverse right along the wall to the ledge. By aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Revizor
Through cracks via 2 rings in the upper part. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Morový sloup
In the middle of the NE wall, via a shallow crack and small pillar to the 1st ring. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Morový sloup
From the southern pre-rock, via the wall and a small pillar crack to the ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Morový sloup
Via the wall to the right of the western edge and along the crack to the 1st ring. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Morový sloup
Left of the western edge of the tower, via an overhanging small pillar and crack (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Srpnová
Left in the NE wall, via a crack, chimney and crack to the pillar. Via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Srpnová
In the left part of the upper wall, via a crack in the corner (ring) to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Srpnová
From the valley side by aid climbing, a small crack (2 rings) and the wall to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Popocatépetl
In the left part of the valley (SE) wall, via a corner crack to the 1st ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Popocatépetl
From the SW chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Popocatépetl
In the right part of the NE wall, via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Popocatépetl
Right of route "White Tie" through the chimney to the pillar, via a crack and chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Popocatépetl
From the NE, by stemming, higher up via the left crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Permoníček
Left of the western edge, via a crack to the ring. Via the small pillar to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Permoníček
Via the NE chimney to the block, then by stepping over and through the gully to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sviňáček
Along the north edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Rotvajlerka
From the chimney, via the northern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sviňáček
From the uphill side, along the west edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Rotvajlerka
From the fore-summit on the NE side of the tower, by a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Svině
In the left part of the NE wall, via a crack to the pillar to the 1st ring. Via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Svině
In the left part of the SW wall, via a crack (ring) to the gallery. Finished route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Svině
From the SE, with significant building/aid to the fore-summit and via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Svině
Finished route to the small platform, right by building to the ring. Up the wall and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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