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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Hafuša
Up the wall below Sirael via 5 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Satyr
Via the crack-pillar over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Bakchus
From the summit of Bakchantka by leaping to the tops of the blocks in the gully between… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6
Šárka
To the right of 'Natural Cold' via a corner and a crack over an overhang (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Šárka
In the valley wall to the left of the route 'Natural Cold' via a fissure (ring), a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pštrosí vejce
From the North via aid climbing and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Polárka
Via the plateau wall and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pštrosí vejce
Via a stemming/layback in the plateau (South) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Polárka
Via the right plateau edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Pštrosí vejce
By leaping to the plateau edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ondráškova věžička
Start below the Southwest edge, along the edge to the ring and over the hourglass to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Ondráškova věžička
In the valley wall from the right, from the small chimney, up the wall to the left into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ondráškova věžička
From the plateau side via the chimney to the block (pine tree). Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mučírna
Rock Climbing
3
Mučírna
Rock Climbing
6
Měsíc
To the right in the valley wall via a crack (K) to the end, and then left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Měsíc
From the West via a crack and to the right along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mučírna
Rock Climbing
3
Koš na hlavy
From Gilotina up the chimney and steep section to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Koš na hlavy
From the East, via the protruding wall over 2 rings and from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Koš na hlavy
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kaňour
To the left of the NW edge up the face, n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
?
Kaňour
Up the gully from the NW and n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
6
Kaňour
Up the SW face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Kaňour
Up the face from the NE to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
6
Grand hotel Pupp
Rock Climbing
6
Holátko
From the north edge directly, n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Holátko
From the upper side to the right, n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kaňour
Up the overgrown gully from the south to the balcony and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
3
Holátko
Up the left upper edge, n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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