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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Svině
In the middle of the NE wall, through the chimney (ring) (by building) and via a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5+
Svině
Left of the northern corner, via a crack to a small platform. To the left to the ring, … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Žebrácká hůl
From the gorge along cracks (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Zmoklá
NW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
Přeskok
Zmoklá
From the uphill plateau (from NE) via a crack to the pillar. Jump right to the second… Rock Climbing
5+
Šplhačka
At the left valley (northern) corner via a small crack (1st ring) and a crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zmoklá
SW overgrown wall to the left over a small platform to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5
Zmoklá
SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Šplhačka
From the uphill side from the NE, along the left edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zmoklá
Up the wall along the W edge (ring) to the balcony. Up the chimney. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Šplhačka
In the left part of the NE wall, 2 m traverse and up the wall to the right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Šplhačka
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tranzistorka
Up the upper wall over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tranzistorka
From the NE via a crack to the hole and to the left via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tranzistorka
Up the left NE crack to its end (ring) and to the right via the Spárky (Cracks) route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Věž veš
To the right in the valley wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Věž veš
Through the middle of the NE wall (ring) into a recess, along its right edge to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Malý roh
From the NE via a small pinnacle and up the wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Kozí hora
In the valley NE wall via a system of cracks (ring) under the overhang to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Malý roh
From the plateau side, to the left of the route "Blues for a Crazy Girl" up the wall (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Malý roh
To the right of the northern corner via a small pinnacle, higher up along a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Ziki
From the saddle (from Hafuša) via a corner crack to the pillar. Up the small wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kiki
From the NE via a corner crack to the 1st ring and up the wall to the right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kiki
On the plateau side over overgrown steps and small chimneys into the saddle. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Ziki
From the tourist path, through the corner into the saddle behind Marfuša. Through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Marfuša
Between Marfuša and Hafuša via a chimney, to the right up the wall to the 1st ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Přeskok
Ziki
On the plateau side, traversing over overgrown steps and small chimneys into the saddle.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Marfuša
SE crack to the platform, build-up to the ring, build-up from the seat and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Šachta
Through the crack from the SE past the 1st ring to the balcony, traverse along the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hafuša
In the left part of the SW wall (from the pillar) to the right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1

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