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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Francouzské věže
From the highest point of the terrain between the French Towers and Pidimužík, via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Francouzské věže
From the SW from the col between the French Towers and Vngng, by step-over, left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Francouzské věže
Via the chimney (left NW) 8m, traverse left to the 1st ring. Up the wall along the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Venkovská
From the plateau side, over the fore-rock to the SE edge, then up to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Venkovská
From the French Towers, via a crack to the ledge and then via the route "Vesničko..." to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Chlupatá
From the ledge on the East side, up the wall from the left (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Chlupatá
Along the left SE edge (ring) to the turret and by jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Chlupatá
From the West, via the chimney between the pillar and the tower, higher up along the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vousatá
From the right (hourglass) to the North edge (1st ring), steep step up and left (2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Chlupatá
Via the chimney and wall from the East to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Malé káně
In the upland (NE) face via a crack to the 1st ring. Left up the wall and over the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mini káně
Upland face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Malé káně
To the right on the valley side of the tower, three meters up the chimney, then left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malé káně
Via the traverse route to the small pillar. Bouldering, via a gully (ring) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Malé káně
From the saddle via the chimney to the small pillar, bouldering to the ledge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velké káně
Up the center of the NW face and right along the wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Velké káně
At the eastern edge, along the small crack and up the wall over the overhang to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Velké káně
Via the traverse route to Malé káně onto the small pillar, bouldering to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Velké káně
The ascent starts on the block below the right upland edge. Bouldering and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Vaněk
Along the crack of the 'Šišškomet' route to its ring. Up the quartzite wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Efendi
Via the "As in the Old Days" route to the widening (hourglass), on the ledge 2m right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Běloveská
From the east to the right, along the (north) edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Běloveská
By opposition between Bražecká and Běloveská to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5+
Řízek
Through the chimney from the valley to the boulder, by opposition (ring) and crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Řízek
From the block below the NW face by overhang, by building and wall right beyond the edge.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Řízek
From the block on the plateau (NE) side, build into the wall and left through the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Řízek
By crack to the pillar (1st ring), by opposition chimney (2nd ring), by wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Řízek
From the block on the plateau (NE) side, build into the wall and right along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Filípek
From the west by falcon crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
2
Filípek
By a slabby corner in the west face. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall

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