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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Miláček
Via the "Iron Monday" route past the 1st ring to Cupid's Arrow on the pillar. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6
Gondola
From the uphill side, through the chimney to a block, via climbing moves and the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Miláček
In the right part of the valley wall (from the tourist path) via a small crack and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Miláček
Via the Iron Monday route to Cupid's Arrow into the saddle between the peaks. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Amorův šíp
Between Cupid's Arrow and the massif (from NW), via the left part of the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Žižiho věž
Via the Via vitae route to Hrad, into the chimney before the 1st ring. To the left, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Lidoop
Through the valley corner crack (or chimney from the upper side) to the saddle. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Fachman Lorenc
Through the valley crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall and via the falconet (2nd ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kódl
From the upper side (from SE), through the chimney and crack to the pillar to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zoologická zahrada
To the left of the 'Path of the Great Ape', through the inner chimney to the pillar. Rock Climbing
6-
Zoologická zahrada
From the tourist path, through the chimney to the pillar and by traverse to a ledge on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Prduch
From the tourist path, chimneys to the pillar. To the left, through the chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kozlíček Dazule
From the hiking trail, up the chimneys to the pillar. By stepping over and along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Husopaska
Along the eastern edge (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Duch
From the NE (from the hiking trail), up the chimneys to the pillar. By building to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Husopaska
SW chimney to the pillar, by building and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Páteční
From the NW, from the edge with a jump to a small platform (bolt) and then left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Zapadlá
To the right of the Old Route, up the chimney to the pillar and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Páteční
By opposition against the NW edge to the bolt. From the opposition, by building and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zapadlá
To the right of the "Náhradní" (Alternative) route, up the wall to the right (bolt) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zapadlá
From the plateau side, by building, crack, and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pásovec
From the south, via the corner crack to the sub-summit. A high step onto the ledge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pásovec
In the left part of the NE wall, via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pásovec
Through the northern corner to the sub-summit. A high step onto the ledge and then a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
4
Pásovec
From the upper gorge, via a crack to the saddle and then the wall to the small pillar.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Mláďata
From the plateau side, via a system of cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mláďata
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mláďata
In the valley (SE) wall, by the right corner crack, higher up to the right by the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Mláďata
Approach on the NW side at the big tree. From the left, up the wall (Q) to the balcony,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Užovka
In the right part of the wall via a crack and chimney onto a pillar, via a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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