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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Kormorán
In the middle of the NE wall via crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Albatros
At the northern edge via crack to the flake and extensive aid climbing to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Albatros
Right of the southern corner (from the tourist path) via crack to the balcony. Along it… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Albatros
Right of the west edge via chimney to the balcony of the edge/lip. Via step-over and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Albatros
Via opposition (stemming) against the Sea Horse to the 1st ring. Via wall (2nd ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Albatros
In the corner on the NW side of the tower, traverse via chimney to the opposite side.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Atol Mururoa
Via crack in the northern edge to the 1st ring. Along the edge to the 2nd ring and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Albatros
Rock Climbing
6
Albatros
Right in front of the Gothic Gate (from the southern corner) via chimney to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Atol Mururoa
In the right part of the NE wall via a widening corner crack (ring) to the pillar. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Mořský koník
Between Sea Horse and Albatross via chimney into opposition (stemming), aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mořský koník
From the plateau gorge via opposition (stemming) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Slepičí král
By the valley wall (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Slepičí král
By the wall (ring) and small cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Blekota
From the plateau side, right to the ring and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Slepičí král
From the inner space (direction from Rukavice) by a chimney and small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Slepičí král
From the plateau side, by a stemming/bridging chimney to the pillar. Over another pillar… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Rumburak
By the corner crack and left by the wall to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Blekota
From the plateau side, by stemming/bridging to the block. By stepping over/traverse and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Blekota
From the valley side, by the crack and left by the wall to the 1st ring. By the wall left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Rumburak
Through the middle of the SE wall to the ring. Traverse by the wall to the left and by a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Rumburak
Rock Climbing
4
Rumburak
From the NE, by a narrow gully/small chimney to the pre-summit and by the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rumburak
In the right part of the SE wall, by a chimney to the pre-summit. By an overhang and wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Čípek
By the NE crack to a small pillar and by the wall over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Sklípkan s knírem
By the right NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sklípkan s knírem
By the left NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
10
Huňka
By the North wall using edges over a ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Sklípkan s knírem
By the SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Huňka
From the plateau side, traverse left to a small pillar and by the wall along a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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