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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Blátoš
From the plateau side, with substantial aid climbing and via the crack to the plateau.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bazilišek
From NW via the corner to the 1st ring. Traverse the wall left (2nd ring) to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bazilišek
In the left part of the SW wall, via the crack in the corner to the pillar and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bazilišek
From the plateau side (from SW) at the pillar via a slanted crack, chimney and wall over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Bazilišek
From Ostrovní Path, via the crack in the north corner of the tower to the ledge, via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bazilišek
From Pekelník, from the block, up the wall right to the east edge and along it (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Džunka
From the plateau side, up the steps, over the overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Fregata
Up the chimney of the 'Foot Fault' route to the collapsed pillar, then a wide crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Fregata
From SE via a system of chimneys and over pillars to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Džunka
From the valley side, from the inner chapel between the Junk and the Frigate, up the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Džunka
By building/aid climbing to the crack in the north edge, follow it to its end, step left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Huňáč
From NE (from Metuje) via the falcon crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the pillar and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Fregata
Up the chimney under the collapsed pillar (from Robinson) to the balcony, up the wall… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Fregata
From the valley side, up the chimney between the Frigate and the Junk (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Fregata
To the left of the start of the "Last Voyage" route from the inner chapel between the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Fregata
In the left part of the valley (NW) wall, up the chimney to the cornice. Traverse the… Rock Climbing
4
Mecheché
The access is below the NE wall behind the overgrown blocks. Up the yellow wall, above it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mecheché
To the right of the Solivé Route, up a crack to the 1st ring, (building (up/aid) from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kuba II
Up the chimney between the tower and the Black Abbot. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mecheché
Up the plateau chimney (from the Tramp) to the ledge. By building (up/aid) along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ibiza
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ibiza
Up the crack from the SW, higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Černý opat
From the Daemon side, up the chimney to the ring, by opposition to the ledge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ibiza
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Černý opat
From Daemon, up the chimney along the crack, higher up through a narrow side chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Černý opat
From the inner space on the NE side of the tower, up a crack to the balcony, right up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Démon
From the NW, up a crack to the pillar. Left up the wall to the 1st ring and directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Démon
Along the edge to the NE pillar. A traverse right into a crack, along it and right up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Démon
From the inner space up the chimney, by opposition, a "living bridge" and right up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Démon
In the right part of the NE wall, up the chimney to the pillar, then a small rock outcrop… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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