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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Carabus
By crack in the right valley (northern) edge to the 1st ring. Traverse left by wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Carabus
From NW by chimney between Carab and Šejdíř to the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Carabus
From the start of the Pětka route, traverse left on a ledge, then by a wide crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Čertův švagr
Between Devil's Brother-in-Law and Káča, chimney and wall near the east edge (2 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Mates
From the blocks on the SW side of the tower, by jumping to the pre-summit and wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Anče
By opposition from SW to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Anče
Chimney to the ring and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Mates
From the upper side, chimney to the pre-summit. By jumping and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Čertův švagr
The start is in the NE face to the left of the Old Route. Wall, higher up by a fissure… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Mefisto
From the left upper edge, wall across 2 rings diagonally left into a wide crack. Up this… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Mefisto
From the upper (SW) gorge, chimney to the plateau. Left by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mefisto
In the right part of the valley (NE) wall, a winding wide crack to a pillar at a height… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Čertův švagr
In the right part of the NE face (from Mephisto), chimney to the blocks. Left by stemming… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Kristián
In the left part of the SE face, a crack to the 1st ring. Traverse the wall right under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Telefonista
In the left part of the valley wall, chimney between Telefonist and Wanderer (ring) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Telefonista
From the massif by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Telefonista
Via the Golden Slippers route to the Wanderer on the balcony. Overhang and building up to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Peklo
SW crack to the end and right in the ledge behind the southern edge to the ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Kristián
From SW, chimney to the block and building up to the pillar. (Double) building up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kristián
From NW, by a conical chimney and left by the wall to the balcony. Overhanging wall (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Peklo
From the through chimney between Hell and Devil, a crack in the NE face (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Peklo
SW chimney to the pillar and left by another chimney to the valley pillar. Wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Peklo
Via the West Chimney route to the pillar, right by the wall to the edge and up it (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Peklo
From the wedged boulder under the NW face, (by building up) crack to the ring and wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Peklo
From SE, small footholds (1st ring) and crack to the 2nd ring. Wall along the cracks to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Nebesa
Up the left valley crack below the overhang, left through a crawl into the chimney of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Nebesa
Up the right upper crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Nebesa
Up the right valley crack and right to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the small balcony … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Lucius
From the SW by a small dihedral, higher up by a crack to a small balcony. Through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lucius
From the gully between towers, via the NW chimney to the fore-summit. By overhang and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay

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