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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Mušketýr
(UIAA 6-) Between the routes Dvouhodinová and Sudiválek up the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mušketýr
(UIAA 5+) Description missing Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mušketýr
(UIAA 5+) Description missing Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mušketýr
(UIAA 7+) In the left part of the valley face through the falcon and left up the face to… Rock Climbing Danger
6-
Mušketýr
(UIAA 6+) Entry right of route no. 1. Up the face right to the 1st ring, traverse right… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Mušketýr
Along the south edge (ring) directly to the 1st ring of the Green Route and along it… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Mušketýr
(UIAA 8-) From E up the face (3 rings), right through falcons to the hourglasses of the… Rock Climbing
6-
Mušketýr
(UIAA 6) From the NW gorge up the face to the block. Building up to the N edge and down… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Mušketýr
(UIAA 7) Up the center of the NW face onto the sloping slab and along it right to the… Rock Climbing Danger
5
Mušketýr
(UIAA 5+) Description missing Rock Climbing Danger
6-
Zrádce
(UIAA 7) Overhanging N face obliquely down to the 1st ring, left up the face to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
5+
Mušketýr
(UIAA 6-) Description missing Rock Climbing
5+
Mušketýr
(UIAA 6-) Description missing Rock Climbing
7/7+
Zrádce
To the left of the west ridge up the face (ring, bolt, ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Mušketýr
Through the SW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Na šancích
(UIAA 7) In the valley wall, to the right of route no. 1, by the wall (3 rings) to the… Rock Climbing
5
Zrádce
Rock Climbing
6
Zrádce
(UIAA 6+) From the boulder below the W face, traverse, directly up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Zrádce
(UIAA 6-) In the right part of the SW face (in a blind gorge) by a small pinnacle and an… Rock Climbing
4-
Zrádce
(UIAA 4) From the outcrop above the SW gorge, entry into the SW face. Through the crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Na šancích
From the start of Vejškrabek by a gully to the left and by the wall (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Na šancích
(UIAA 6-) In the right part of the SW face from the right by the wall to the ring and to… Rock Climbing
2+
Na šancích
(UIAA 2) In the chapel by crawling into the inner chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Na šancích
To the left of the route. By the Chapel through a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Na šancích
(UIAA 3) In the middle of the valley wall by chimney and left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Na šancích
(UIAA 6-) By the left wall to the ring of route no. 9 and by the left wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Na šancích
(UIAA 7-) To the right of the start of route no. 9 by the wall and gully to the ring. By… Rock Climbing Danger
?
Na šancích
(UIAA Leap 2) From the fore-rock from Musketýr by a leap and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Na šancích
Rock Climbing
6-
Na šancích
Rock Climbing

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