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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Na šancích
(UIAA 4) Start in the right part of the SW face. By the wall and a wider crack to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Na šancích
Rock Climbing
6-
Na šancích
Rock Climbing
4-
Na šancích
(UIAA 4) Via the NW face. Rock Climbing
5
Na šancích
Rock Climbing
4+
Na šancích
(UIAA 5) To the left of the route Fern Shadows through the middle of the wall to the fore… Rock Climbing
5
Na šancích
(UIAA 5) From the fore-rock of Musketýr from the route 'Slipping Edge' by overhang and… Rock Climbing
2+
Na šancích
From the upland side via steps and a corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Na šancích
(UIAA 5) To the right of the W edge by the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Matějda
Rock Climbing
5+
Patest
To the left of the route, Black Slab by the wall over the ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Matějda
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Patest
From the valley side by the edge to the small pillar and SW face (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Poněšická
(UIAA 4) From the accidental side, left to the W edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Poněšická
(UIAA 3) Description missing Rock Climbing
7-/7
Dům smíchu
(UIAA 7-) Up the wall in the left part of the NE wall and traverse right in the ledge to… Rock Climbing
5+
Nejezchlebník
Up the edge via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Nejezchlebník
From NW via a small pillar to a ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dům smíchu
(UIAA 6+) At the right valley (NE) edge, up the wall, via a small pillar and left crack… Rock Climbing
3
Lízátko
Up the west edge over the balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Lízátko
In the saddle to the balcony and up the north edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Leopoldova věž
(UIAA 6+) Up the wall to the right of the N edge and via a small pillar to the ring … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Křížákový Pete
To the left of the South Edge, up the wall via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Křížákový Pete
Rock Climbing
2+
Křížákový Pete
Up the north edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Křížákový Pete
Rock Climbing
5
Křížákový Pete
Rock Climbing
8/8+
Leopoldova věž
(UIAA 9-) Up the left part of the SW wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the right to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Leopoldova věž
Via the route 'Cvičíme v rytme' (We exercise in rhythm) to the 1st ring and up the wall … Rock Climbing
8-/8
Leopoldova věž
(UIAA 8) Up the narrow NW wall to the 1st ring and to the right to the 2nd ring. Along… Rock Climbing

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