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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Rokoko
(UIAA 2)Through the gully in the left part of the NE face and along the ridge to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Sudeťáček
northern edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Maroko
Rock Climbing
5+
Maroko
(UIAA 6) Along the W overhanging edge through the wall (sling), higher along the edge n.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sudeťáček
Voň S by crack and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Maroko
To the right in the SW wall over K n. t.. Rock Climbing
2+
Sudeťáček
western edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Chlapíček
(UIAA 2) Right of route no. 1 along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Chlapíček
(UIAA 6+) Through the middle of the SW wall over the recess to the ring and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Chlapíček
(UIAA 6) Along the W edge over a large overhang (ring) n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Chlapíček
(UIAA 5+) Ascent on the edge to the right of the First Rays route. Curved crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Chlapíček
(UIAA 5+) Wide crack from SW. Rock Climbing
5
Chlapíček
(UIAA 5+) Ascent in the chimney between the tower and the eastern pillar of the Pačmák… Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Chlapíček
Rock Climbing
6
Chlapíček
Rock Climbing
5+
Chlapíček
(UIAA 5+) Left of route no. 3 over the overhang and along the edge to the pillar.… Rock Climbing
5+
Chlapíček
Rock Climbing
6
Chlapíček
(UIAA 7-) Through the middle of the valley wall over a sloping shelf to the 1st ring and… Rock Climbing
6-
Chlapíček
(UIAA 6+) From S via a crack and left wall (ring) to the edge. Along it to the pillar,… Rock Climbing
2+
Chlapíček
(UIAA 2) Through the plateau wall and chimney. Rock Climbing
6
Smradlavá
From the NW face, falcons to the left (ring). Left onto the edge, traverse right into the… Rock Climbing
?
Štětináč
From the NW face over 2K to the pillar, descent and jump n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Štětináč
Rock Climbing
3
Štětináč
Rock Climbing
4-
Štětináč
Rock Climbing
5+
Štětináč
Rock Climbing
?
Štětináč
(UIAA Step Across 1) Along the upper edge to the SW pillar. By stepping across and by the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Štětináč
(UIAA 7) By the South wall (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Štětináč
(UIAA 6) Near the West edge along the notch and by the wall to the ledge. Via a crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Štětináč
(UIAA 6+) Left of the West edge by the wall, through the notch and left along the crack… Rock Climbing

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