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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 7) Start identical to the 'Břicha' route. Up the wall along the small chimney about… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 6) From the traverse chimney by stemming (ring), stepping onto the balcony and up… Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 5+) Above the ring traverse left and up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Pačmákovy věže
(UIAA 5) Start on the left valley pillar. Up the wall to the ring and along the edge. Rock Climbing
4-
Pačmákovy věže
(UIAA 4) From the boulder in route no. 1 right up the wall. Rock Climbing
2+
Pačmákovy věže
(UIAA 2) Along the NW edge. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Beranovy věže
To the left of the Northeast crack route up the wall (2 rings). Rock Climbing
3
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 3) In the left part of the SV wall via a crack, higher up the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pačmákovy věže
(UIAA 6-) From the fore-rock in the left part of the valley wall, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pačmákovy věže
(UIAA 8-) Start from the fore-rock in the left part of the valley wall. Slightly right to… Rock Climbing
6-
Pačmákovy věže
(UIAA 6) Directly along the edge (hour-glass) to the ring. Rock Climbing Danger
3
Pačmákovy věže
Up the left valley chimney (to the left of the wedged block behind the fore-rock) to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Pačmákovy věže
To the right of the edge up the wall (ring) to the Necessaire ring. Up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing
5
Pačmákovy věže
To the right of the route. The right chimney along the edge of the pillar over 2 rings up. Rock Climbing
6-
Pačmákovy věže
Rock Climbing
3
Pačmákovy věže
In the right part of the valley (SW) wall via a corner crack into a niche and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Pačmákovy věže
(UIAA 6) Up the right valley chimney and down the wall. Up the crack (ring) and wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Pačmákovy věže
Rock Climbing
5
Pačmákovy věže
Rock Climbing
3
Pačmákovy věže
(UIAA 3) Along the N edge of the second pillar to its summit. Transition up. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pačmákovy věže
The entry is below the valley (southern) edge. Up the wall along a small crack (ring). Rock Climbing
3
Pačmákovy věže
To the left of the eastern route up the wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Pačmákovy věže
Rock Climbing
3
Pačmákovy věže
(UIAA 3) In the SE wall of the third pillar via a crack and wall to its summit.… Rock Climbing
3
Pačmákovy věže
(UIAA 3) From SE between the second and third pillar through the chimney up. Rock Climbing
7+
Kobieta
(UIAA 7+) From the W side up the wall along the small crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Malý Péťa
Rock Climbing
5
Malý Péťa
Rock Climbing
2+
Pačmákovy věže
(UIAA 2) From SE over a boulder into a chimney between the tower and the first pillar. Up… Rock Climbing
5+
Malý Péťa
Rock Climbing

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