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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Štětináč
(UIAA 6+) By the corner crack in the NW wall below the overhang. Via a fissure over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Zmrzlina
(UIAA 4) From the NW along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Lajdák
Right part of the valley wall (2 bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Zmrzlina
By the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zmrzlina
(UIAA 5) Access below the NW edge. Diagonally right and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zmrzlina
(UIAA 3) From the North via a chimney and a crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Zmrzlina
(UIAA 6) By the NE wall (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zmrzlina
(UIAA 6) Access below the center of the SE wall. By the wall and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Zmrzlina
From the upper (western) edge by the wall diagonally to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Zmrzlina
On the north edge over the 1st bolt has a block and by the wall over the 2nd bolt to the… Rock Climbing
3
Mrazík
(UIAA 3) From the upper side (at the start of the chimney) by the wall left to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Mrazík
To the left of the chimney and by a small wall to the pillar. Rock Climbing
2+
Mrazík
(UIAA 2) By the chimney from the NE to the pillars and via route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Mrazík
(UIAA 4) To the right of the 'Sestupovka' route by the wall and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
?
Mrazík
(UIAA Step Across 2) From 'Bonbónek' by stepping across to the pillar and then by the… Rock Climbing
2+
Mrazík
(UIAA 2) By a small wall from the upper side, higher up to the right via a small chimney… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Beranovy věže
Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Beranovy věže
Right of the route Northeast Crack up the wall to the 1st ring. Along the edge (3 rings)… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 8+) Right of route no. 12. Up the wall along small pillars to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 7) From the plateau below the NW face traverse down the wall to the ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 6) From NW (from Ovčák) from the traverse corridor through the chimney to a large… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Beranovy věže
By Arnoldka to the 1st ring and up the wall over the overhang and 2nd ring to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 8-) In the middle of the NE face along the crack to the 1st ring. Above it up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 6+) Through the gorge on the SW below the W edge to the start. Over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Danger
8/8+
Beranovy věže
Left part of the SW face (2 bolts) to the ring of the Lijavcová route and up it to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 5+) Left of route no. 6 by stemming against a small pillar and up the left wall to… Rock Climbing
3
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 3) From the gorge on the SW by the left crack. Rock Climbing
5
Beranovy věže
Center of the SW face slightly left to the ring. Up the gully and the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Beranovy věže
Right of the route &Right Crack& by stemming to the 1st ring and up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Beranovy věže
(UIAA 7-) From E via cracks over overhangs to the ring. Down the wall along the ledge to… Rock Climbing

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