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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Křeslo
(UIAA 4)Right part of the NE wall to the small chimney and through it to the NW pillar.… Rock Climbing
6-
Křeslo
To the right of the Window route up the wall via 2R to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Křeslo
(UIAA 4)From the boulder along the W edge to the pillar. Rock Climbing
5
Křeslo
NW edge via 2R to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Křeslo
(UIAA 5)In the middle of the valley (SW) wall through the crack to the end, up the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Křeslo
To the right of the route. Over the pine tree up the wall (3R) to the fore-summit and via… Rock Climbing
5+
Křeslo
(UIAA 6)Up the middle of the SW wall to the ring and slightly left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Křeslo
(UIAA 4)In the left part of the SW wall through cracks and up the wall to the terrace. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Křeslo
Rock Climbing
3
Křeslo
Through the corner of the Window route and left up the wall to the pillar. SE wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Křeslo
Rock Climbing
4+
Křeslo
(UIAA 5)In the SW wall through the crack to the clock. Along the ledge, traverse left and… Rock Climbing
3
Křeslo
(UIAA 2)From the NE corner into the window, through it to the NW terrace and up the wall… Rock Climbing
2+
Opičí
(UIAA Traverse 2) By traverse from the Tenth. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Opičí
Left of route no. 4 up the wall (ring) to the clock, right to the crack and up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Opičí
Up the NE wall over a small balcony under the corner crack and to the ring. Through the… Rock Climbing
4+
Opičí
Above the overhang, follow the flake left into the crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Opičí
(UIAA 8-) Up the wall left of the W edge (2 rings) to the terrace. Via route no. 8 to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Opičí
(UIAA 7+) In the middle of the SW wall from the blocks up the wall along the edge (2… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Opičí
(UIAA 7-) Left of route no. 3 with a strenuous climb and up the left wall to a sloping… Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Opičí
(UIAA 4) Through the chimney in the SW wall. Rock Climbing
5
Opičí
(UIAA 5+) In the middle of the SW wall directly from the blocks, higher up right via a… Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Opičí
Rock Climbing
6-
Ústecká
(UIAA 6) From the platform in the valley wall along the overhanging crack to the ring and… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Ústecká
Rock Climbing
5+
Ústecká
(UIAA 6) In the middle of the W wall via the corner and left up the middle of the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Ústecká
(UIAA 7-) From the 1st ring of the old route traverse left to the ring. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Ústecká
By the old route to the ledge over the 1st ring, then left up the wall and edge over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Ústecká
(UIAA 5) Along the E edge to the 1st ring, then right along the ledge past the edge into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Ústecká
(UIAA 5) To the left of the N edge directly up the wall to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing

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