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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Rohatá
Via the wall along the southern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dentista
Rock Climbing
3
Dentista
Through the center of the NW wall via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Dentista
Rock Climbing
5
Dentista
Rock Climbing
6-
Starodávná stěna
Rock Climbing
5
Dentista
Rock Climbing
6-
Posvícenecká
(UIAA 6) SW wall near the W edge. Rock Climbing Danger
6-
Posvícenecká
(UIAA 6+) From the left along the S edge to the ring of route No. 2. Left under the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Posvícenecká
From the 1st ring, up the wall to the right to the 2nd ring near the northern edge. Up… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Posvícenecká
To the right of the start of route &Under the rappel& via the wall (bolt and ring) to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Posvícenecká
(UIAA 6)Up the overhanging SE wall to the 'clock' below the summit block. From there,… Rock Climbing
5+
Posvícenecká
(UIAA 5+)From the upland side via overhanging cracks into the recess to the 'clock'. Down… Rock Climbing
6-
Sestromuž
Rock Climbing
3
Sestromuž
Rock Climbing
5+
Sestromuž
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Posvícenecká
Up the NE wall via a large hole to the 1st ring. Up the wall (2 rings) to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
5+
Posvícenecká
(UIAA 6)From the recess, via the right corner crack directly over the overhang ('clock')… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lehkotěžká stěnka
(UIAA 7)From SE via a falcon-like feature to the 1st ring. Up the wall (2nd ring) to a… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Lehkotěžká stěnka
Left part of the SE wall (3 bolts) to the ledge, where we cross the Poloběs route. Up the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Lehkotěžká stěnka
(UIAA 7+)Up the wall along the southern edge to the 1st ring. Then up the wall (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Danger
7/7+
Lehkotěžká stěnka
From the 2nd ring, up the wall (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Sestromuž
Up the SW wall via the balcony to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ruská
(UIAA 3)Along the SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Lehkotěžká stěnka
From the upland (NW) side, by stepping over and right along the steps to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ruská
(UIAA 3)Description missing Rock Climbing
3
Lehkotěžká stěnka
Right of the Poloběs route, via a corner crack to the pillar and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5
Bastila
Through the SE chimney into the interior space and up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Bastila
Along the right valley edge via a corner and crack (1st ring) under an overhang. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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