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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Bastila
From the valley side (from SW) via a chimney with wedged blocks to a ledge. By opposition… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Meduna
UIAA cl. 7From the tourist path by opposition to the ring. Via a crack through a small… Rock Climbing
7
Ževěž
From the SW from the gorge, via a crack through a small cave to the pillar. Descend via… Rock Climbing
8-
Strážce Sibiře
UIAA cl. 8-In the right part of the SW wall, a 5m chimney and then the main wall (3 rings… Rock Climbing
7+
Slovenský znak
UIAA cl. 7+Report. behind the pillar by a crack (2 rings) to the pillar to the 3rd ring… Rock Climbing
5
Slovenský znak
UIAA cl. 5From the recess along the ledge down and by a narrow crack to the sub-summit… Rock Climbing
5
Slovenský znak
UIAA cl. 5Between the Slovak Sign and Kvočná, through a chimney and wall into a recess.… Rock Climbing
6
Slovenský znak
UIAA cl. 6Under the pillar of the Slovak Sign via a narrow crack and crawl into the… Rock Climbing
4
Kvočna
Cl. UIAA 4Start as for route No. 1 on Slovakian Sign. Via a chimney and after a step-over… Rock Climbing
8
Odznak
From the Canyon from the west via various, mostly very strange, chimneys to a plateau… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kachna
From SW from the gorge, from the boulder, via an overhang into a crack (or directly from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Kartágo (Bombičky)
Cl. UIAA 8From the small cave at the right valley edge via the wall (ring) to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
6
Kartágo (Bombičky)
To the right of the start of the "Terminal" route, via a corner to the ceiling crack.… Rock Climbing
3
Lahvičky
Cl. UIAA 3Suddenly via chimney and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7+
Lahvičky
Cl. UIAA 7+From the fore-rock into the recess below the W edge. Traverse the wall to the… Rock Climbing
8
Lahvičky
Cl. UIAA 8In the valley wall via a crack or right chimney to the ledge. Traverse left to… Rock Climbing
5
Masiv u pavlače
To the right of the route "Frkačka" via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Masiv u pavlače
Cl. UIAA 5Through the chimney between the tower and Pavlač to the slanting crack. Up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Masiv u pavlače
Cl. UIAA 5+In the left part of the S wall, via a crack running right, to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Masiv u pavlače
Cl. UIAA 5+Right E crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Masiv u pavlače
Cl. UIAA 5+Description missing Rock Climbing
3
Masiv u pavlače
In the middle of the NE wall (between the routes Left East Crack and Surprising Overhang)… Rock Climbing
3
Masiv u pavlače
Cl. UIAA 3From SW easily to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vykuk
UIAA grade 5From the NE, up the crack to the pillars, left via the chimney and wall to… Rock Climbing
7-
Kvičerov
UIAA grade 7-From the valley side, up the chimney into the cave, by stemming and crack to… Rock Climbing
6
Vykuk
In the right part of the valley (NW) face, up the crack and chimney to the balcony. Up… Rock Climbing
2
Vykuk
UIAA grade 2From the SE gorge, through the passage into the inner chimney, via it and up… Rock Climbing
3
Vykuk
UIAA grade 3Left of route no. 1, up cracks over blocks into the chimney of route no. 1… Rock Climbing
4
Kvičerov
UIAA grade 4From the SW, up the diagonal gully, higher up the wall along its right edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Rudolfova věž
UIAA grade 5+From the Canyon through terrain into the casual gorge to the start. Up the… Rock Climbing

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