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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Šmodrchal
(UIAA 4)From the square by Breka through a crack to the rocky outcrop and left along the… Rock Climbing
5
Šmodrchal
Right of Skrz díru (Through the hole) by stemming and along the edge to the K. Through… Rock Climbing
5+
Šmodrchal
Left of the start of Drastická cesta through a crack and wall from the left, higher up… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Šmodrchal
Rock Climbing
3
Šmodrchal
(UIAA 3)From the pines right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Šmodrchal
Along the northern edge to the 1st and 2nd ring. Through a crack to the northern pillar,… Rock Climbing
2+
Šmodrchal
(UIAA 2)Through a small chimney between the SW tower and the main massif. Rock Climbing
4-
Šmodrchal
(UIAA 4)Start on the N side of the long fore-summit. Narrowing corner. Through a crack… Rock Climbing
4-
Šmodrchal
(UIAA 4)From Milenecká through the chimney to the ledge and a crack over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Šmodrchal
(UIAA 7+)From the SW crack to the ring, through the crack and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
6+/7-
Šmodrchal
In the NW face of the Milenecká foreground through a chimney to a ledge. Traverse right… Rock Climbing
2+
Šmodrchal
From the gorge (from Milenecká) a sloping crack to the hole. Through the passage and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šmodrchal
(UIAA 3)In the left part of the valley wall through a gully around two pine trees to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Milenecká
Rock Climbing
?
Milenecká
(UIAA Jump 1) From the summit of Malá milenecká, descend 2m through the crack in the… Rock Climbing
3
Milenecká
(UIAA 3) Access between Milenecká and Tom. Through a system of chimneys and up the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Milenecká
Right of the Old Route, up the wall (ring) to the birch tree and by the Old Route Variant… Rock Climbing
5+
Milenecká
Left of the north corner of the tower up the wall, higher up a wide crack to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Milenecká
(UIAA 8) From the fore-rock on the NW side, through the overhanging crack (1st ring) to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Milenecká
From the starting block of the route 'Věrně milování', traverse the wall to the right… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Milenecká
Directly up the wall to the ring. Rock Climbing
6+
Milenecká
(UIAA 6+) Left of the North corner, a wide crack to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Milenecká
(UIAA 7-) Below the center of the NW wall, from the weathered rock, traverse in holes… Rock Climbing
6-
Milenecká
Rock Climbing
5+
Milenecká
(UIAA 6-) About 3m below the 2nd ring, traverse left to the gully, up it and right along… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Milenecká
(UIAA 7) From the fore-rock below the center of the NW wall, traverse right along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Milenecká
(UIAA 5+) From the NW end of the corridor, chimney up to the balcony with a ring. Right… Rock Climbing
5+
Milenecká
(UIAA 6-) Through the crack of route no. 3 and right wall into the niche. Along the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Milenecká
Rock Climbing
4+
Malá milenecká
(UIAA 5) Along the S ridge and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing

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