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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Milenecká
(UIAA 5+) Through the gully of route no. 1 for about 2m. Traverse the wall down (clocks)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Milenecká
(UIAA 3) Via the old route to the end of the gully, to the right to the birch tree and… Rock Climbing
5+
Milenecká
(UIAA 6-) Through the crack in the SW wall to the 1st ring. Left wall to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
3
Milenecká
(UIAA 3) From the fore-rock onto the SW via a groove diagonally to the right, down along… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Malá milenecká
Up the face along the rounded southern ridge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá milenecká
(UIAA 5) Up the left gully (from SE) to its end at the pine tree and then right up the… Rock Climbing
5
Malá milenecká
(UIAA 5+) Approach below the center of the SE face. Up the right gully (ring) to its end… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Malá milenecká
Rock Climbing
8/8+
Malá milenecká
Rock Climbing
6-
Malá milenecká
Right of the groove. Up the wall over the overhang. In any case, 3 pull-ups. Right up the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Malá milenecká
(UIAA 7+) In the NE face via a small pinnacle/arête (1st ring) to the 2nd ring. By… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Malá milenecká
To the right of the Yellow Face over 5K to the crack of the Yellow Face. Up it to the… Rock Climbing
3
Sukničkář
(UIAA 3) In the right part of the E face via a gully and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Malá milenecká
(UIAA 4) Along the short SW ridge to a plateau and along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Sukničkář
Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Malá milenecká
(UIAA 6) Via the chimney between Milenecká and Malá Milenecká to the valley side, descend… Rock Climbing
3
Malá milenecká
(UIAA 3) Traverse between Milenecká and Malá Milenecká into the cave, to the right along… Rock Climbing
4+
Sukničkář
(UIAA 5) Up the face left of route no. 1. Rock Climbing
4+
Paroháč užalovanej
Right part of the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Sukničkář
(UIAA 2) To the right of the W ridge, along a groove and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Paroháč užalovanej
(UIAA 2) Along the rounded N ridge. Rock Climbing
4+
Paroháč užalovanej
Through the middle of the NW face, and via a groove to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Sukničkář
(UIAA 4) Left part of the NW face and higher up via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Paroháč užalovanej
(UIAA 2) From the SW face along indistinct grooves to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Paroháč užalovanej
To the left of the West Ridge, up the face along indistinct grooves to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Paroháč užalovanej
(UIAA 3) In the left part of the SE wall, up the crack and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Paroháč užalovanej
(UIAA 2) Description missing Rock Climbing
4+
Paroháč užalovanej
(UIAA 5) From the W (right of the adjacent block) up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Babinec
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zeppelin
Up the south face of the pillar via 2 rings to the pre-rock. Rock Climbing

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