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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Deštivá
Through the right part of the NE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Pahorek
(UIAA 2) Up the plateau wall to the right of the S edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Pahorek
(UIAA 5) Along the S edge to the ring and left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Pahorek
(UIAA 5) From the ring to the right up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pahorek
(UIAA 3) Through the right part of the SE wall to the clock (feature) and left over the… Rock Climbing
2+
Pahorek
(UIAA 2) From the plateau side along the diagonal ledge to the right into the gully,… Rock Climbing
2+
Papala
(UIAA 2) Through the depression left of the plateau (E) edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Papala
Through the center of the valley wall to the K. over the overhang and the slabby wall, or… Rock Climbing
5
Papala
(UIAA 6) Along the S edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Papala
Left in the SE wall through the hole and along the crack/gully to the 1st K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Papala
(UIAA 4) Description missing Rock Climbing
4+
Papala
(UIAA 6-) Along the left valley edge and right up the wall over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Papala
Up the NW wall of the west pillar to the crack and along it to the pillar. By route Hopsa… Rock Climbing
5
Papala
(UIAA 6) From the W (west) along the crack/gully to the ring and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Papala
(UIAA 2) Description missing Rock Climbing
5
Amálka
Rock Climbing
2+
Amálka
(UIAA 2) From the accessible side through a crack along the roots to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Amálka
Rock Climbing
2+
Unavené kameny
Rock Climbing
5
Amálka
(UIAA 5+) Along the South edge (hourglass/thread-through) over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Amálka
Rock Climbing
3
Unavené kameny
Rock Climbing
4+
Unavené kameny
(UIAA 5) Up the wall along the West edge. Rock Climbing
4-
Unavené kameny
(UIAA 4)Broken/Cracked along the S edge up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Unavené kameny
(UIAA 4)Right part of the SW face, via a gully and the wall over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Unavené kameny
(UIAA 4)Up the center of the SW face. Rock Climbing
4+
Tomášova věžička
Start on the crack under the Magic Holds. Directly past the right clock over micro-holds… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tomášova věžička
From the right upper edge, traverse diagonally right along the wall (loops) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Tomášova věžička
Rock Climbing
5
Třetí
Rock Climbing

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