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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Tomášova věžička
Rock Climbing
3
Tomášova věžička
Rock Climbing
4-
Tomášova věžička
Rock Climbing
2+
Tomášova věžička
Up the upland crack. Rock Climbing
5
Tomášova věžička
Rock Climbing
5
Třetí
(UIAA 5+)Along the N edge (ring) to the balcony and via route no. 1 up. Rock Climbing
2+
Třetí
From the upland side, up the wall to the right onto a small platform on the NW face and… Rock Climbing
3
Třetí
(UIAA 3)Start at the NE fore-rock. Up the wall below the overhang, traverse down behind… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Třetí
(UIAA 8+)Along the SW edge (ring) up. Rock Climbing
4+
Třetí
(UIAA 3)Up the valley chimney to the balcony and via route no. 1 up. Rock Climbing
4+
Třetí
(UIAA 5)By cracks to the right of the valley chimney onto the terrace and via route no. 1… Rock Climbing
5+
Druhá
Rock Climbing
7/7+
Druhá
(UIAA 8-)Along the overhanging S edge (hour-glass) to the ring. Rock Climbing
5
Druhá
(UIAA 5+)Right part of the NW face into a recess and right up the wall. Rock Climbing Danger
6
Druhá
(UIAA 7-)Up the wall into the hole, right up the wall above the overhang (ring) and left… Rock Climbing
5+
Druhá
Rock Climbing
2+
Druhá
(UIAA 2)Description missing Rock Climbing
6-
Jójo
Via steps to the plateau fore-rock. Via the wall along the left edge to the gully and via… Rock Climbing
6-
Chlapecká
From the tourist path via the valley face and a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Spodek
In the left part of the NE face via a crack to the pillar, to the right via the wall and… Rock Climbing
4-
Dinosaurus
In the left part of the plateau face via a crack to the plateau. Via aid climbing and the… Rock Climbing
6
Svršek
From the NE via a crack (ring) to its end and to the right in a ledge traverse to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Svršek
In the left part of the NE face via a crack to the pillar and via the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Dinosaurus
Via the valley (SE) chimney, straddle/opposition and the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Holinka
Via the plateau (NE) crack to the pillar and to the left via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Hnojogénes
The start is to the left of the north corner of the tower. Via a crack into a hole and… Rock Climbing
4+
Zajíc
From the SW via a chimney under an overhang and a crawl through a hole to the left to the… Rock Climbing
5
Špindlerovka
From the south via a chimney into an opposition/straddle position, aid climbing to a… Rock Climbing
4+
Koumák
Via the SE face and a notch into the window to the hourglass. To the left via a gully to… Rock Climbing
2+
Polední kužel
In the right part of the valley face via a double crack to the pre-summit. Via the wall… Rock Climbing

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