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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Traťmistr
From the inter-tower via a chimney and crack to the pre-rock. By aid climbing into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Traťmistr
From the pre-rock in the inner space via the corner crack (circle) to the pre-summit. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Traťmistr
Via the Courtyard route to Pivovarská to the circle. By overhang and wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Traťmistr
From NW via a crack to the block and along the edge to the Pivovarská pillar. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Traťmistr
To the left of the West Crack route via the wall below the overhang. To the left via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Traťmistr
Middle of the NW wall (5 circles) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Pivovarská
To the right from the pre-rock in the inner space via a crack and to the left via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Pivovarská
In the NW wall via a vein over 2 circles to the balcony, along the edge to the second… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Traťmistr
From the west from the passage via opposition and crack (2 circles) to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
9/9+
Traťmistr
Via the SW edge over four circles to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4
Pivovarská
From the pre-rock in the inner space via a crack onto the pillar, via opposition and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Indián
NW wall to the 1st ring. Wall left past the edge, up (2nd ring) into the chimney of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Indián
From the chimney into the crack and through it past the first ring to the second ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Indián
From the chimney of the Studnička route, bridge right to the 1st ring. Wall right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Indián
From the south, via the chimney to the ledge, traverse (ring) left along it and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Indián
From the fore-summit, right via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Indián
Via the Houpačka (Swing) route to the ring. Wall directly (2nd ring) below the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Indián
In the NW wall (opposite the buffet by the Tunnel) via a slanting crack to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Severka
Right of the 'From the Rubbish Dump' route, via the chimney and wall (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Severka
Right of the north edge, via a system of cracks to the ring (aid climbing from the belay)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Severka
From the NW, via the chimney and a system of cracks (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Indián
From the NE, via the chimney to the ledge, traverse (ring) right along it and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Severka
NW wall (3 rings) directly to the 1st ring of the 'Chimney Sweep's Party' route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Severka
Western route into the chimney and right along the edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Severka
Western route into the bridging position, step over into the wall and diagonally right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Severka
From the NW, via the corner left into the small chimney, through the chimney left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Severka
In the NW wall, via the chimney and wall (aid climbing) into the gully. Through the gully… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Severka
NW chimney, bridging left to the edge and wall (1st ring) to the pillar. Wall left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Severka
From the block in the notch, via the wall to the ring. Aid climbing from the belay, via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Severka
In the NW corner, via a narrow chimney to the pillar. Aid climbing and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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