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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Severka
From the NE, via the chimney into the notch and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Severka
Left of the south edge, with significant aid climbing and via the wall to the ring. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Severka
From the SW, from the inner space via the chimney into the notch. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Severka
Left of the Old Route, via the wall and small crack (hourglass) to the fore-summit. Along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Planetárium
Right of the north edge, via a crack to the 1st ring. Left via the wall to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Planetárium
Middle of the NW wall (2 rings) to the fore-summit and then via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Planetárium
From the NW, via a crack and wall (ring) to the fore-summit. Then via the Old Route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Planetárium
Left of the 'Forbidden Holds' route, via the wall (2 rings) and right along the edge via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Zemědělská univerzita
From the SE, via the small chimney crack to the 1st ring, over the overhang to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Planetárium
Right part of the NW wall and gully to the ring. Right along the edge to the fore-summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Planetárium
Right part of the SW wall (artificial steps) to the fore-summit. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Pletichář
From Petřina Tower, jump to the ledge, short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Pletichář
Wall along the east edge via 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Totem
Valley wall via 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pletichář
From the NE, via the chimney into the notch. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pletichář
Via the Picnic Chimney route to the top and over the overhang to the ring. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pletichář
From the west, via the chimney into the notch, step over to the plateau and via the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+
Prostřední věž
UIAA Class 6+. In the left part of the plateau wall, traverse down in the ledge around… Rock Climbing
3
Jižní věž
UIAA Class 3. From the fore-peak between the South and Middle Tower by chimney to the… Rock Climbing
5
Malá jehla
UIAA Class 5. From the highest point of the terrain by a small crack to the balcony. By a… Rock Climbing
5
Žalud
UIAA Class 5. Up the plateau (North) wall to a wide ledge. By aid (ring) and up the wall… Rock Climbing
4
Mužík
UIAA Class 4. From the saddle between Mužík (Manikin) and Sedmilhář (Seven-Liar) up the… Rock Climbing
5
Mužík
UIAA Class 5. Left of route no. 1 (behind the edge) by crack to the ledge and up the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Vosí hnízdo
UIAA cl. 5+ From the boulder under the S edge, up the wall to the ring. By aid climbing… Rock Climbing
3
Vlk
UIAA cl. 3 In the NW wall, by crack and higher up by chimney to the fore-summit. By a… Rock Climbing
3
Vlčí zub
UIAA cl. 3 From the W, up the wall to the right to the crack and along it to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
3
Brontosaurus
UIAA cl. 3 From the S, from the saddle by divergence along the diagonal crack, traverse… Rock Climbing
4
Orlíček
UIAA cl. 4 From the E, from the highest point of the terrain, down the wall into the S… Rock Climbing
5
Korzár
UIAA cl. 5 Description missing Rock Climbing
5+
Májová
UIAA cl. 5+ From the W fore-rock, up the wall below the abseil point to the top. Rock Climbing

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