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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Ještěr
The access is to the right of the crack of route no. 1. Wall to the ring of route no. 1… Rock Climbing
5
Ještěr
From the W by crack (ring) and chimney n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Ještěr
NW chimney (from Učedník) n.v. Rock Climbing
5
Ještěr
From the N by chimneys to the pine and by traverse n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Ještěr
From the uphill side by chimneys to the blocks and by traverse n.v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Ještěr
From the edges by chimney to the birch. By jumps and traverse n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Náprstek
From NE (from the platform) by construction and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Velbloud
From NE along the fore-rock to the SW wall and by that to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hrad
The ascent starts on a vegetated ramp (at the left S corner of the tower). Traverse left… Rock Climbing
2
Hrad
From the highest point of the terrain by stepping over and wall below the ears. Between… Rock Climbing
3
Balvan
From N (from the boulder) by overhang to the N edge. Traverse right into path No. 3 and… Rock Climbing
3
Balvan
NW by crack and center of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Balvan
SE by wall to the balcony and right by wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Balvan
By path No. 1 to the balcony and left by wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Balvan
By small chimney to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Peklo
From S (from the blocks) by overhang into the hanging chimney, by which to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
3
Peklo
From SE by chimney to the plateau and right by wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Peklo
By the chimney "Pravé údolní" (Right Valley) to the small balcony. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Peklo
From the Písař block by jump to the plateau and by path No. 2 to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kule
From the boulders on the plateau side by wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
7-
Večernice
From NE by crack and small chimney to the sub-summit plateau. Traverse right into the… Rock Climbing
5
Večernice
By path No. 1 to the sub-summit plateau. Left by overhang to the ring and traverse by… Rock Climbing
2
Blázinec
From the N by crack onto the pillar and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Jitřenka
From the NE by crack and small chimney to the saddle. To the right by a small wall onto a… Rock Climbing
2
Stodola
By the NE wall down to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Ploutev
By the E wall to the right onto a small balcony in the valley wall. By the wall to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Jehlička
From the gorge by stemming and wall onto the block. By stepping over into the saddle and… Rock Climbing
5
Jehlička
Along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Jehlička
From the upper gorge by stemming between the tower and the block (or traverse in the wall… Rock Climbing
4
Jehlička
By the SW wall diagonally to the left and directly (below the rappel) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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