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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Medvídek
By stacking/aid climbing and along the E edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Medvídek
By crack in the NW wall under a small overhang and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kazatelna
From the NW by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kazatelna
Rock Climbing
7
Kazatelna
Left of the chimney, route No. 1 up the wall to the 1st ring and traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
2
Kazatelna
Rock Climbing
3
Kazatelna
Rock Climbing
5
Kobylka
Along the South edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Otesánek
From the North corner of the tower via a pinnacle/small chimney and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2
Otesánek
From the SW via the gully to the platform and by route No. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rohová
In the NE corner via the conical chimney to the saddle and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pastička
Up the upper chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kohoutek
From the South (from the fore-rock) up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Houbová
From the West by building (artificial aid/stacking) into the wall and left along the… Rock Climbing
5
Kamarád
Rock Climbing
5
Kamarád
Rock Climbing
2
Těžítko
From the North up the wall to the block, over the overhang past the chimney and up the… Rock Climbing
3
Orel
From the NW from the edge by stepping over to the balcony, traverse left along the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Mamut
At the right valley edge up the wall (ring) to the ledge. In it traverse left (around the… Rock Climbing
2
Mamut
Up the SW crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Mamut
From the East up the wall over the points and by passage to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Mamut
Up the West chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Mamut
Up the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Pravěká
From the southeastern fore-summit up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ještěr
From NW via a crack and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Ještěr
From the SE ridge up the steps to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Veverka
From E via a chimney and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Karkulka
Right of the start of route no. 1 (from the detached block) along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Karkulka
From the ring diagonally right to the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Karkulka
Up the SW wall to the ring, traverse 3m right down to the SE ridge and along it to the… Rock Climbing

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