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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Karkulka
Along the W ridge directly to a small balcony, traverse right to the ring of route no. 1… Rock Climbing
5
Bobek
From E traverse right into the N small wall and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Bobek
Up a small wall to the summit gully and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vévoda
From the cave on the valley side, via a corner and chimney under a wedged boulder … Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4
Vévoda
From N via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vévoda
Up the NE wall directly below the rappel to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Samotář
Rock Climbing
6-
Samotář
Up the South wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vévoda
Up the NE wall left to the E ridge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Samotář
Up the NE wall below the rappel to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Trůn
From SW via a crack to a platform, along the S ridge below the summit and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci
From W via a crack (sling) and traverse in the notch right to the ring. By building (up)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Trůn
Up the NE wall and via a small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+
Obr
From NW up the wall to a boulder. From there, up the N wall to the W ridge and along it… Rock Climbing
5+
Zoubek
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Termitiště
From the fore-rock on the SW side, up the wall along the edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Termitiště
From the east, via a system of cracks to the splinter and up the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Friends Laid wall
5+
Termitiště
From the NE, via a crack (ring) to the splinter and the "Spiral" route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Mraveniště
Through the S chimney to the pre-summit and route no. 1 up. Rock Climbing
2
Mraveniště
From the N, via a crack to the balcony and up the wall to the pre-summit. Route no. 1 up. Rock Climbing
5
Mraveniště
From the NW, via a chimney to the plateau, left chimney to the pre-summit and up the wall. Rock Climbing
2
Prcek
Rock Climbing
5
Mraveniště
To the left of route No. 2, via cracks and a chimney to the balcony. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Mraveniště
From the NE, over boulders to the plateau and route no. 1 up. Rock Climbing
4
Kůrovec
To the left of route No. 4, up the rounded edge. Rock Climbing
3
Kůrovec
Up the W edge. Rock Climbing
5
Kůrovec
To the left of route No. 1, up the wall. Rock Climbing
2
Kůrovec
From the N (from the boulder), up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Kůrovec
Up the NE wall along the E edge. Rock Climbing
6-
Cukrlátko
From the SW, via a small crack to the edge, then a gully and along the edge to the ledge.… Rock Climbing

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