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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Palec
Up the E wall (left of path no. 3). Rock Climbing
3
Palec
Up the E wall to the left and up the SW wall. Rock Climbing
5
Palec
Rock Climbing
3
Kvočna
The ascent starts at the E edge. Up the wall to the right. Rock Climbing
4
Kvočna
From the E edge via the wall up. Rock Climbing
5
Kvočna
From W by chimney and up the W wall. Rock Climbing
3
Kvočna
From N onto the ledge and up the NE wall. Rock Climbing
4
Bába
From SE by crack, higher up by chimney to the plateau. Up the wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Bába
From W by crack to the plateau and by route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Bičíkovka poševní
From NW (from the corner) up the face to the left to the ledge and left to the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Paseka
From NW, left of the Mezihrany route, by crack to the end (ring) and up the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Zarostlá
By opposition between the NW edge and the opposite rock, via an overhang and up the face… Rock Climbing
4
Zarostlá
Left part of the NE face about 2m and left along the edge of route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Zarostlá
Via the overhanging SE face to the E edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Patník
From E with the aid of a small overhang to the SE edge and right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5
Bota
From SE by a small crack and by standing up from a belay to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Patník
Rock Climbing
2
Bota
From NE over rocks and by standing up to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rozeklaná
Rock Climbing
6
Rozeklaná
Along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Rozeklaná
Up the E face to the SE edge and along it to the pre-summit. Via route no. 1 to the… Rock Climbing
3
Rozeklaná
From E by chimney to the pre-summit and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Ušák
By gully in the NE face to the plateau and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
List
Along the W edge to the balcony and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
List
Up the NE face to the SE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
List
From W by leap to the balcony and by route no. 2 to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kamarád
From E by chimney and transition to the plateau below the summit. Along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4
Kamarád
From S traverse the face to the plateau and by route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kamarád
From E by crack to the plateau and by route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Blok
From NW over boulders to the blocks, by crack and chimney in the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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